The V8 Owners Forum -

My SD1 was 30 years old in August.

Fair to say the throttle pot is too. I am aware that they do wear out and replacements are difficult to get hold of.

Is there any way to test for wear? Is there a suitable alrernative available?

I have a leak on my SD1 V8 EFi - I have a stream of coolant dripping down the back of the block, and I can see coolant on the valley gasket. I have a drip from the thermostat housing, but not enough to create the volume that is finding it's way out of the engine. Any culprits? Inlet manifold to come...

I have had it running again and it seems to have settled down - it ticks over normally and is very quiet - obviously I have had to do this to top the coolant up.

I am getting hold of a strobe so I can set the timing up accurately.

Managed to get my SD1 EFi going today after not running for 18 months. After many failed attempts I went back to basics and started again. Set timing as per the book, battery charged, spray of easy start - it started straight away. Car ticks over, but is lumpy when revved, bangs and pops. I presume ...

Gentlemen, Thank you for your replies. If I push the flap in the AFM I have fuel under pressure - so that side is ok. You will have to bear with me - my knowledge of auto electrics before this week stood at checking batteries. It is possible that I have damaged something - I remember welding for a m...

I had a post in the ignition section "It still won't start" my SD1 VDP EFi has not been run for over 12 months due to the considerable amount of welding it needed. Despite trying for a few months the engine will not start - it splutters for a second or so and that's it. New plugs, arm and ...

Dave,

I have eliminated the valve timing - everything is ok. I will replace the chainset anyway.

So could my problem be a faulty coil? I will try what you suggest when everything is back together.

I posted a thread in the electrical section regarding non start on my SD1 VDP EFi- - suffice to say it still is'nt going. I spoke with somebody who has experience with these engines, he explained that a combination of a slack timing chain and a back fire may cause the chain to jump on the sprockets ...

I noticed a few weeks back that the rotor arm was difficult to remove - it had corroded on to the shaft - when it came off and I fitted the new one it was difficult to fit the new cap - it was as if the rotor arm was too tall. After some faffing about I got it to go back together - it was as if the ...

After weeks of trying unsuccessfully to get my VDP EFi SD1 go I have chucked in the towel. New plugs cap and arm have made no difference. After prolonged cranking it splutters then dies - when I get out of the car the garage reeks of very rich exhaust fumes. I have tried setting it up as detailed by...

Will these be ok in a 9.75:1 compression engine? I believe the pistons are different.

Just the electrode - threaded portion is the same.

I have been given a set of these -they have been used, just as a spare set to get my VDP EFi running as the ones in the car get wet with the cranking of the engine. However, I have noticed that the electrode is longer than the Denso W20EPR-U plugs that I currently have in the car. I assume they shou...

Due to not being able to get my SD1 VDP EFi to start, I have tried again, however I thought I would treat it to a dizzy cap and rotor arm. The original lucas arm was a swine to get off but came off eventaully - it had rusted to the shaft. However I cannot get the new cap to fit over the arm - is the...

Does anybody have anything like the above? I have an SD1 efI, had to take the dizzy out to prime the oil pump, took photo's and put everything back as removed - no start, but felt like it wanted to. Convinced that I had put it back incorrectly, I set things up as described on page 68 of the haynes m...