Timing jumped a tooth?
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Timing jumped a tooth?
I posted a thread in the electrical section regarding non start on my SD1 VDP EFi- - suffice to say it still is'nt going.
I spoke with somebody who has experience with these engines, he explained that a combination of a slack timing chain and a back fire may cause the chain to jump on the sprockets - he said he has personal experience of this. Obviously you then have a situation where the engine will not run.
So I will take a look inside the front cover at some point over the weekend to see if anything has moved. Has anybody else had experience of this?
As an aside, the engine has 107k on the clock but was very sweet, quiet with good oil pressure.However, if I am opening it up I was thinking of replacing the timing gear anyway, but then you think while it is open should I consider a new cam / lifters / valve springs?
It actually crossed my mind that maybe I should break it for spares, however I have done so much welding on it it would be a shame to strip it then send it over the bridge.
Any advice and opinions, as always, are appreciated.
I spoke with somebody who has experience with these engines, he explained that a combination of a slack timing chain and a back fire may cause the chain to jump on the sprockets - he said he has personal experience of this. Obviously you then have a situation where the engine will not run.
So I will take a look inside the front cover at some point over the weekend to see if anything has moved. Has anybody else had experience of this?
As an aside, the engine has 107k on the clock but was very sweet, quiet with good oil pressure.However, if I am opening it up I was thinking of replacing the timing gear anyway, but then you think while it is open should I consider a new cam / lifters / valve springs?
It actually crossed my mind that maybe I should break it for spares, however I have done so much welding on it it would be a shame to strip it then send it over the bridge.
Any advice and opinions, as always, are appreciated.
- topcatcustom
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Replacing the timing set wouldn't be a bad idea, even for a simplex set (single chain) as the originals become so slack they let the timing out anyway.
If it's the original cam then it's probably due a change, but as you said when you start doing that then where do you stop and it can become economically non-viable!
At least you can do the timing set change easily, replacing cam means an 80% strip down of the whole engine, maybe do the timing and see how it runs.
If it's the original cam then it's probably due a change, but as you said when you start doing that then where do you stop and it can become economically non-viable!
At least you can do the timing set change easily, replacing cam means an 80% strip down of the whole engine, maybe do the timing and see how it runs.
TC
Very unlikely it has jumped a tooth especially at such low mileage. And even if it had, it would still start. If it jumped more than a tooth or two, the valves would hit the pistons...
Depending on use and servicing, the cam could be worn at this sort of mileage. But won't suddenly have stopped it running.
Depending on use and servicing, the cam could be worn at this sort of mileage. But won't suddenly have stopped it running.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
- richardpope50
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My Pinto engine did just that. I was in M25 traffic and the engine got hot then a big backfire. Engine started again but lack of power above 3,000rpm. I changed all electrics and it took me about a year to find the problem. OK, Pinto is a rubber timing belt but ...
Richard.
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
Dax Rush 5.0l TVR V8, EFI with Megasquirt ECU and wasted spark, Racelogic Traction Control and Quaife LSD ....... Now nut and bolt restoring a TR6
I've had Rover V8's jump one or two teeth and keep running (badly, but better after a timing adjustment) and I've had them jump mulitple teeth and bend the valves. (Zero compression on 5 out of 8 on the last one....) Not noticably noisy beforehand on the last one either, well according to the owner anyway.DaveEFI wrote:It's also an OHC, so a long belt. The SD1 chain is as short as they come. It would also IHMO maker a lot of noise if so worn it could jump a tooth.
The nylon cog can possibly jump a tooth. But also a knacked dissy drive can jump a tooth ??
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
DaveEFI wrote:No need to strip things down - it it has jumped a tooth the ignition timing will have shifted too - so check with a timing light.
Please Dave, explaine how to do so on a non runner.....BrenG wrote:I posted a thread in the electrical section regarding non start on my SD1 VDP EFi- - suffice to say it still is'nt going.
.
'73 Ford Capri. 3.5 RV8, Magnacharger 110 Supercharger, Merlin F85 Heads, Water/Methanol Injected
'73 Ford F250, 6.7ltr V8
Building a GT40 mk2
'73 Ford F250, 6.7ltr V8
Building a GT40 mk2
A timing light will work when cranking. But if it's actually a tooth out you'd see that with a static check - looking at the sensor or points. Assuming you know what the timing was before.
Did you check out my further reply to your original thread?
Did you check out my further reply to your original thread?
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
-
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Definitely can happen, this happend to me a few years ago when the chain jumped a tooth, mind that was a 7k burnout, lifted off and it jumped, broke a tooth off and split the timing gear,
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THE SMOKING GNU
12.604 with an old boiler of a RV8 and no gas
WHY are there so many IANS on this site???????
12.604 with an old boiler of a RV8 and no gas
WHY are there so many IANS on this site???????
Well, yes. But an SD1 EFI won't rev to 7k.
I know the cam/dizzy/oil pump drive is a weakness on a 'tuned' engine. It doesn't commonly give trouble on a standard one.
As I've said on the other thread about this car I reckon it's a red herring - the speedo acting strangely is a clue as the sensor is fed from the same circuit as the ignition. So as in all fault finding, check the simple things first before looking at the unusual.

I know the cam/dizzy/oil pump drive is a weakness on a 'tuned' engine. It doesn't commonly give trouble on a standard one.
As I've said on the other thread about this car I reckon it's a red herring - the speedo acting strangely is a clue as the sensor is fed from the same circuit as the ignition. So as in all fault finding, check the simple things first before looking at the unusual.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y