B/W 35 problems

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon May 23, 2011 11:57 am

Semi Hemi wrote:ok thanks ill try that harvey,the fluid that im using is comma AQ3 that meets dexron 3 is this no good?

Comma list which transmissions their oils are suitable for:-

http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/index/6/29

You need AQF.

Semi Hemi · Post by **Semi Hemi** » Mon May 23, 2011 4:06 pm

thanks dave ill try and pick some of that up,will i have to flush everything out??
this is getting expensive!!

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon May 23, 2011 4:47 pm

Semi Hemi wrote:thanks dave ill try and pick some of that up,will i have to flush everything out??
this is getting expensive!!

The big snag is you can't drain the torque converter in situ - and that holds quite a bit. I must admit to not knowing what problems mixing the fluids would cause.

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Mon May 23, 2011 5:02 pm

Because you can't drain the converter all you can do is drain the sump, which for the sake of argument would get half the fluid out, which you then replace with ATF-G. Then use the car to thoroughly mix what's in there together giving a 50/50 mix. Then do the same thing again which will give you a 50/50 mix of the combined fluid and ATF-G, so you are increasing the proportion of ATF-G each time. Do it again and after the third drain/refill you should be getting closer to 100% ATF-G.
Short of totally dismantling and cleaning the box, and cutting the converter in half and cleaning that out this is the closest you're going to get, and although you can never be sure you've got every last drop of Dexron out, you can drain/refill as many times as you like, (and afford) and each time you will be increasing the percentage of the correct fluid.
There's no problem with mixing the fluids themselves, it's just the problems associated with having Dexron in there in the first place that will cause problems, and the lower the percentage of that, the less likely you are to suffer problems because of it.

Semi Hemi · Post by **Semi Hemi** » Mon May 23, 2011 6:08 pm

firstly thanks for all the advice,its looking like im going to be spending loads more money on fluid and at £20 for 5 litres its not going be cheap...
are parts still available for these box's like clutch plates bands etc,i may have a go at doing one of my other box's so its ready to swap over the winter

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Mon May 23, 2011 6:18 pm

If you go to somewhere like Maccess you should be able to get a cheap ATF-G for about £12 a gallon, providing it meets the specification then buy the cheapest you can find.

All the gasket sets, seals, clutch plates and bands are still available new, and if you needed hard parts such as clutch drums or geartrains, in fact pretty much anything, I've got them all as good used items.

Semi Hemi · Post by **Semi Hemi** » Mon May 23, 2011 7:00 pm

ok thanks harvey,i was quoted around £400 for a rebuild from a local auto trans shop hopefully ill be able to do it for a lot less,the only thing im concerned about is wether i can set up the cable correctly.

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Mon May 23, 2011 9:46 pm

Setting the cable shouldn't be any problem. With the sump off you can set the crimp on the cable correctly and easily. The problem you will have is that you can't refit the pistons into the clutch drums without two special installers.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon May 23, 2011 11:16 pm

harvey wrote:Setting the cable shouldn't be any problem. With the sump off you can set the crimp on the cable correctly and easily. The problem you will have is that you can't refit the pistons into the clutch drums without two special installers.

It's some time since I overhauled a 35 - at least 30 years - but I managed with no special tools.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Mon May 23, 2011 11:24 pm

Semi Hemi wrote:ok thanks harvey,i was quoted around £400 for a rebuild from a local auto trans shop hopefully ill be able to do it for a lot less,the only thing im concerned about is wether i can set up the cable correctly.

If you're using a maker's linkage so the control cable moves the distance it should between idle and full throttle, it's not too difficult.

Make sure the carbs open fully with the pedal floored. If you pull the control cable out by hand you'll feel the resistance of the kick down valve at its maximum. Set things so it just kicks down, then check the change up speeds are correct at very low thottle. Slightly too high won't matter - too low does.

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Tue May 24, 2011 4:05 pm

DaveEFI wrote:It's some time since I overhauled a 35 - at least 30 years - but I managed with no special tools.

I have absolutely no idea how you could possibly have managed to refit the pistons to the clutch drums with new seals on the pistons without damaging them, other than by using the proper installers.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Tue May 24, 2011 7:49 pm

harvey wrote:
DaveEFI wrote:It's some time since I overhauled a 35 - at least 30 years - but I managed with no special tools.
I have absolutely no idea how you could possibly have managed to refit the pistons to the clutch drums with new seals on the pistons without damaging them, other than by using the proper installers.

Really don't remember. But one of diaphragm springs was broken, and the piston damaged, so I must have replaced it.

Semi Hemi · Post by **Semi Hemi** » Tue May 24, 2011 8:29 pm

harvey wrote:
DaveEFI wrote:It's some time since I overhauled a 35 - at least 30 years - but I managed with no special tools.
I have absolutely no idea how you could possibly have managed to refit the pistons to the clutch drums with new seals on the pistons without damaging them, other than by using the proper installers.

do you mean the servo's??mine look different to the piccs in my manual.

harvey · Post by **harvey** » Tue May 24, 2011 9:55 pm

No fitting the pistons and seals to the servos isn't a problem, although that return spring on the rear one will bite you given half a chance, especially if your fingers are all slippery with fluid. That's the type of rear servo I would expect to see, there was an early version with a coil spring under the piston but I haven't actually seen one of those for years, and that may well be the one in your book. There are also two types of front servo, both basically the same, but the later ones have extra parts that make them self adjusting.

Semi Hemi · Post by **Semi Hemi** » Mon Jun 06, 2011 9:58 am

right then,when i first had problems with this box i remember hearing a loud crack nois but couldnt find anything..well now i have!! around the casing by where the rear servo is theres a hairline crack,must have been caused by the rear servo i guess so im going to try some of that metal filler to get me to the end of the year,i can then get my other box rebuilt and start again..the other thing is when it gets hot and i use the kickdown it takes ages to change back up into 3rd,could this be incorrectly adjusted cable?
thanks again