right then
i've fitted a b/w 35 behind my daimler v8 in my hotrod,its one of 3 of this type of box's that i've got and was supposedly re built with 9 clutch plates instead of 7 completley up graded throughout.
it had been stood for 6 years with no fluid in it till i got it,ive fitted it in my rod and driven it for approx 100 miles,without the kickdown cable attached,it seemed ok but i was unsure if it was downshifting ok,anyways i parked it up for the night,started it in the morning with no probs but think i heard a crack come from the right of the box,i selected D and pulled off in first,then it went to change to second but locked up completly locking the wheels,the engine died and then picked up so i went to pull off again and the same thing happend again..anyone got any ideas??im about to pull it and stick another box in,i've been told it may be the one way clutch gone wrong??
regards..
B/W 35 problems
Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators
I dunno for sure. If the tranny is locking, it suggests it's selecting two gears at once. I'll look up the flow chart later to see if a failed sprag clutch could cause this.Semi Hemi wrote:so will that have caused the problem that i've got??DaveEFI wrote:They should not be driven with the control cable disconnected as this sets the line pressure. With that at a very low amount the clutches and bands will slip and burn out.
Was the control cable new - if not did it have a crimped on stop to prevent it going back to absolute zero? If the latter, the pressure should have been adequate for gentle driving.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
no the cable was allready on the box when i got it but it does have a crimp thing on it,its strange because i was using it the previous day and was fine allthough i was unsure if it was downshifting correctly at standstill,i started it the following morning and think i heard a crack noise from the right side of the box,selected drive and as it went to go into 2nd it locked up,the engine died then picked back up so i pressed the pedal and off i went till it tried to change into 2nd again..im stumped,im going to try it again on axle stands in a bit if i cant find what the problem is ill start to strip it ready to put another box in..DaveEFI wrote:I dunno for sure. If the tranny is locking, it suggests it's selecting two gears at once. I'll look up the flow chart later to see if a failed sprag clutch could cause this.Semi Hemi wrote:so will that have caused the problem that i've got??DaveEFI wrote:They should not be driven with the control cable disconnected as this sets the line pressure. With that at a very low amount the clutches and bands will slip and burn out.
Was the control cable new - if not did it have a crimped on stop to prevent it going back to absolute zero? If the latter, the pressure should have been adequate for gentle driving.
Before you start thinking about replacing the box, firstly drain off the fluid and check it for colour/smell/debris, and while the fluid is out if you can get the sump off then do so and see if there's anything obvious to see inside. I have my doubts about it being the one way clutch, that is only in use in first in Drive, and you think you still have that, and although they obviously can fail I've not seen it, and if it does it won't "cure itself". Coincidently I have just sold two UDC's to someone though, but it turned out he didn't need them either....
As said above, you shouldn't run with the kickdown cable disconnected.
As said above, you shouldn't run with the kickdown cable disconnected.
harvey i will be pulling the box out this week,the oil on the dipstick looks clean and has been in for around 100 miles,the box was bought as a re built unit but had been stood for 6 odd years,the guy i bought it off said he'd had it built with extra plates and different valve bodies to make it change at different pressures,how true that is your guess is as good as mine,when i got it you couldnt turn the flange by hand it was that stiff,i've got two other box's that you can turn by hand with clean fluid in.i took the pan off it before i fitted it and all looked clean with new brass type filters.
i had it on axle stands earlier and ran it in drive but didnt dare rev it to change up.it will run in first but as soon as it changes up it locks up stops the car then drives off again till its time to change up...have i bust it by not fitting the kickdown cable??
i had it on axle stands earlier and ran it in drive but didnt dare rev it to change up.it will run in first but as soon as it changes up it locks up stops the car then drives off again till its time to change up...have i bust it by not fitting the kickdown cable??
I don't think the box locking up has anything to do with running with the kickdown cable disconnected, that would cause slip or judder not a lock up.
As you say you have absolutely no way of knowing what parts are in there, and even if you dismantle it you would need to know what you were looking at to tell.
Personally I would have to remove the sump and look before I removed the box, you may see something so blatantly obvious that could possibly be cured without the need to remove the box.
If it has brass type gauze filters it's an early valve block, particularly if it has two of them which would mean it should have a rear pump, which makes it really early, although consistant with it being for a Daimler V8. What's the selector pattern, PRND2D1L or PRND21? (or possibly PRNDL, that would be an early one.)
As you say you have absolutely no way of knowing what parts are in there, and even if you dismantle it you would need to know what you were looking at to tell.
Personally I would have to remove the sump and look before I removed the box, you may see something so blatantly obvious that could possibly be cured without the need to remove the box.
If it has brass type gauze filters it's an early valve block, particularly if it has two of them which would mean it should have a rear pump, which makes it really early, although consistant with it being for a Daimler V8. What's the selector pattern, PRND2D1L or PRND21? (or possibly PRNDL, that would be an early one.)
At low revs, it's difficult to tell the difference between normal torque converter operation and a slipping clutch. They don't have to slip long before they burn out.Semi Hemi wrote:3 hours to pull the engine/trans out fit a new transmission and re fit the lot back in with the help of my hotrod buddies Bingo and stinky rodge king..many thanks fella's
the old fluid allthough new came out brownish so i guess burnt clutch...
Wish I had a quid for every BW 35 condemned because the control cable was wrongly set. Although it's normally the other way round - they are adjusted to make the kickdown work when the real problem is a worn throttle linkage, and you end up with rough changes. Just about every P6 I've ever driven is like this.
Dave
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
London SW
Rover SD1 VDP EFI
MegaSquirt2 V3
EDIS8
Tech Edge 2Y
right then i bit the bullet and pulled the first box apart,the only thing i could find wron with it was an O ring type seal had split and come out of the rear servo(i think thats what its called)what problems would that cause the operation of the box??
all the clutch plates and the bands looked new..
all the clutch plates and the bands looked new..
Rear servo not working will cause the loss of reverse, and First gear lockup, so won't cause the problem you had if it's just not working. It could cause your problem if the seal failure had somehow jammed the rear servo piston in the "applied" position. That way you would still have first, but as soon as second engaged you would have the front clutch and front band engaged for second, but the rear band also on, which would lock it all up.
