Phil
Thanks for the info.
With a stroker crank do I need to go dry sump? Max distance from crank centerline to base of sump is 7 inches - either that or the sump starts getting lower than my 4 inch floorpan!
Also the front dress on both your engines look to be fairly long - do you have any short pump designs - For instance in the current Rover guise the P6 water pump needs a 1/2 inch bulge in the bulkhead (That puts it in line with my shoulder) - space really is at a permium!
I discussed the iron heads with the "donor" and we came to the decision better to do it once properly and go ali from the get go. Edelbrock heads seem to get good comments and seal of approval from a few sources - that coupled to Edelbrock ali manifold and 650 - 670 Holley
All a load of things to consider
Ian
What Have I done?
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- Ian Anderson
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The stroke on a 347 (example) is 3.40" where as a 302 uses a 3" stroke. Don't feel obligated to go the stroker route, although the parts will be of a similar price when compared to a 302, you may end up creating problems for yourself. You also need to notch the bores to accomidate the strokers rotating assembly. Believe me you can build a very strong 302, just build it with a goal in mind and always remember, it's the revs that kill engines so make sure your components all work where you want them to in the rev range availiable.
If your concerned about the water pump neck, shop around and you may find a shorter pump, although how short you need it I don't know, you could always go electric as an option.
A fox body Mustang uses a "double hump oil pan" this may be a better option for your application. If the crank is going to live in the oil, run a dry sump setup.
Phil
If your concerned about the water pump neck, shop around and you may find a shorter pump, although how short you need it I don't know, you could always go electric as an option.
A fox body Mustang uses a "double hump oil pan" this may be a better option for your application. If the crank is going to live in the oil, run a dry sump setup.
Phil
One other thing, have the rotating assembly balanced by a competant engineer and make sure you get the balance sheets when you collect it. You need the following.
Crank.
Pistons.
Rods.
Rings.
Rod bearings.
Balancer.
Bottom pully.
Balancer bolt.
Pulley bolts 3 OR 4.
Flex plate / flywheel.
Bolts for above.
Lower section of timing gear.
Clutch (if applicable)
Phil
Crank.
Pistons.
Rods.
Rings.
Rod bearings.
Balancer.
Bottom pully.
Balancer bolt.
Pulley bolts 3 OR 4.
Flex plate / flywheel.
Bolts for above.
Lower section of timing gear.
Clutch (if applicable)
Phil