Ceramic coated exhaust

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:30 pm

crayefish wrote:As for warm feet syndrome... I wish I had it.

Imagine the scenario of running a tuned P6 (which overheat in stock form) on a hot day in a traffic jam in Whitby. Lots of people admiring the car and its getting very hot. My only way out is to put the heater on and open the windows in a bid to cool it down a bit.

My feet, which were already hot because of the proximity of the exhaust, now start to melt.

I had to take my boots off in a different room!!

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:09 pm

YEAH and don't we know how whiffy your plates were!
Smelt em down here

If your feet are getting really hot how about putting some adhesive heat sheild on the inside of the trans tunnel?
I bought mine from Summit and it is good kit.
As a cheap alternative and dont laugh, use some bacofoil with the shiney side to the metal as a heat barrier.You can fix it in place with gaffer tape or similar.
I have done the rear section of my cabin with that and it does seem to work well even though the car is just sat in the garage running.
My exhausts run very close to the floor and the radiated heat goes straight up (obviously) and the floor in the rear is always cool.
As for Ians hot shoulder syndrome how about a bacofoil t shirt?
Suit you sir

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:21 pm

gelmonkey wrote: As for Ians hot shoulder syndrome how about a bacofoil t shirt?
Suit you sir

I could do that

So long as it does not clash with my tin foil hat used to stop "big brother" bombarding by brain with radio waves!

Ian

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:06 pm

So that is YOU in the Dukes of Hazzard then Ian

Do you have a heat sheild/bulkhead in the GT40?
You must have.
What do you have as a heat sink?

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:35 pm

Me and Daisy? Sounds like fun but not me!

Bulkhead between me and motor is about 1/8th inch fiberglass
No the is no heatshield - but Ihave thought about fitting it but that would be a motor and gearbox out job - naaah I like driving it too much to worry about the heat and after all the sauna helps keep my weight down (not)

Ian

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:44 pm

Ian
Do you mind if I send you a PM ?
Dont want to clog this thread up.

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:02 pm

gelmonkey wrote:YEAH and don't we know how whiffy your plates were!
Smelt em down here

Cheeky Monkey!!

gelmonkey wrote:If your feet are getting really hot how about putting some adhesive heat sheild on the inside of the trans tunnel?

The O/S pipe was too close to the tunnel to get anything in there, so the best bet, considering the condition of the rest of the system, was to have a new system built - properly. (£460 inc vat)

The headers and front section will be ceramic coated, but I will probably get a heat shield for the rear sections if needed.

Pics when I get 'em

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:28 am

Richard
I meant put the bacofoil under the carpet not up under the trans tunnel.
I did n't explain myself properly.
Aologies and i will go and set on the naughty step for the rest of the day.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:00 am

Dont forget (I'm taking an educated guess here) that if you ceramic coat the front sections then the rear section (uncoated) will be hotter then it was before, as the gas temperature will be much higher.

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:32 am

gelmonkey wrote:Richard
I meant put the bacofoil under the carpet not up under the trans tunnel.
I did n't explain myself properly.
Aologies and i will go and set on the naughty step for the rest of the day.

I will be using some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p748/ ... _info.html where necessarry. The rear box is quite close to the side of the boot, so with a bit of patience and a bit of detailed work, I can sort this problem once and for all.

topcatproduction wrote:Dont forget (I'm taking an educated guess here) that if you ceramic coat the front sections then the rear section (uncoated) will be hotter then it was before, as the gas temperature will be much higher.

I thought that and did ask this question in my original post. The straight through silencers will make a slight difference as the hot gasses are out and gone a little quicker keeping the whole system that bit cooler. Also the original manifolds held the heat in better than the stainless ones so I am only going back to original by ceramic coating the manifolds, and with careful use of the above heat insulation I can do the job properly and stop the problems.

It's bound to work

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 9:43 am

Richard P6 wrote:I will be using some of this - http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p748/ ... _info.html where necessarry. The rear box is quite close to the side of the boot, so with a bit of patience and a bit of detailed work, I can sort this problem once and for all.

That stuff is quite good. we used to use it on the rear bulk head and fuel tank on our old Formula car as the exhaust manifolds were about 2" from the fuel tank. that and some glass fibre tape round the manifolds and it used to stay prety cool.

only trouble is that the glass fibre is a bit of a bugger to glue to stuff. for small sections you can use hot melt glue (as long as the temps arent extreme) but for bigger sections we found epoxy worked best.... only trouble is it aint too cheap and one its on its on

the hot melt glue could be taken off fairly easily however

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:07 am

Cheers Crayefish

I actually own a specialist adhesive company

Bonding it on will not be a problem, but thanks anyway

I would probably go for a high heat Contact adhesive - possibly a spray version. I do have one which will take 160C, or to make things easier, I have an aersol adhesive which will take 100C in a low stress application. If you need higher, then a silicone gasket adhesive/adhesive would be best, easy to remove if needed and a heat resistance of 285C.

Richard

crayefish · Post by **crayefish** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:32 am

Richard P6 wrote:Cheers Crayefish

I actually own a specialist adhesive company

Bonding it on will not be a problem, but thanks anyway

I would probably go for a high heat Contact adhesive - possibly a spray version. I do have one which will take 160C, or to make things easier, I have an aersol adhesive which will take 100C in a low stress application. If you need higher, then a silicone gasket adhesive/adhesive would be best, easy to remove if needed and a heat resistance of 285C.

Richard

Looks like bonding wont be a prob then.

We tried contact adhesive, but found the corners and edges came loose fairly quickly. even on the stuff that wasnt high heat. maybe it was the stuff we used, but in the end we though sod it and either used poxy resin or used hot melt

gelmonkey · Post by **gelmonkey** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 5:34 pm

Richard
Do you have a company website?I sometimes have need for specialist adhesives but struggle sometimes to find a company, let alone someone who has more than an ameobic knowledge of the products they are selling to answer questions or give advice.
Cheers
Cheeky monkey aka Gelmonkey aka Paul

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Wed Oct 28, 2009 7:44 pm

Likewise!