Water Leak

davemgb · Post by **davemgb** » Tue Jun 24, 2008 11:46 pm

these are very cheap for water pumps ..

http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/ISLAND- ... 02QQsofpZ0

and fast delivery too

I've not used these people and do not imply any problems with their products, but have seen several very poor quality aftermarket pumps recently which had failed. If they offer a 'Rover' part and it is not in a rover box send it back or/and call trading standards. If it's in a rover box and fails in a short time - send it back and claim on ground it's not fit for purpose.

Dave

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:29 pm

I took it down to a garage today that agreed to do a rad pressure test

Plugges the system in and pumped it up - then I had then change the oil and filter.

After that still sitting on the same pressure - Bugger it perhaps the radfix liquid had worked.

so after new oil ran it up to temperature and it dripped water.

Brought it home and removed the seats, removed the hatch cover and then proceeded to remove the pump (key hole surgery stuff)

The pump showed signs of a lead / discoloured at the bottom and hat I thaught was a flaw in the casting. Turns out this is a drain hole so that when the seal goes the water can escape without knackering the bearing.

New pump now on order - should be here on Monday - there are 2 that this local factors can find for the R V8 1990 model and the one is not bad at about £64 the other is about £140.

They ordered both to see which matches up with my pump

At least that is one more thing crossed off my list

Ian

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 1:52 am

glad you found the problem Ian , you can never be TOO careful when dealing with water leaks

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:15 am

Auto factors got the 2 pumps and neither is even similar!

I had a look on e bay and found this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-V8-Water-Pu ... 286.c0.m14

The pump on the right looks similar - has the 3 "ears" on the pulley mount that needs to be turned to remove the bolts (to allow the socket spanner past)

But mine does not have the other puklley mounting bit on the front (bit with 4 holes)

So can anyone identift this type of pump?

Some day I'll figure out how to post photos here from a Mac

Ian

russell_ram · Post by **russell_ram** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:23 am

IMO. - The two on the left are SD1, the one on the right is a P6. Is your w/pump pulley approx 6 inches in dia and flat (like the one in the picture on P1)? I so then that is P6. If you have a 'stepped' pulley ie belt line is not in line with the pulley mounting face, then the identification becomes a bit more tricky.

I have a couple of Defender alternatives at home which I can photo and might help.

Russ

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:20 pm

The pulley that is/ was fitted bolted dorect to the 3 eared mount - it would put the belt in line with the face of the 3 eared piece.

But it is a twin belt pulley but only 1 is in use.

Crank pulley only has 1 belt V

Probably a Bitza type arrangement!

Ian

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:50 pm

Russell
Many thanks searched for P6 on E bay

Turned up a trader who actually had his phone number
Seemed to know his Rover V8 stuff and confirmed this is the only one with the "top hat" bit

Called - checked part and same casting number as on mine so P6 it is

Best part he agreed to a return within a week if it is wrong!

Ordered and will be here tomorrow

Thanks again

Ian

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:28 pm

bodger wrote:I NEVER use that radweld rubbish , it'll end up blocking up you rad tubes and then you may have even more cooling problems .if it was me i would flush that crap out as soon as poss , if it leaking find it and fix it .
don't risk it really over heating
why they sell that crap is beyond me , you might as well stick an egg in it
_________________
remember it's only a bodge if it DOESN'T worK

Bodge, I'm not sure where I stand on this now!

I had a small radiator leak in an otherwise very good and clean Rover Efi VDP cooling system, that had no sludge, or what have you, in it.

To allow me time to arrange a fix, I popped a Radweld in as directed on the bottle and within an hour the leak had stopped.

I continued to use the car on a regular basis and at the end of that winter, I emptied the system, reverse flushed it, checked for leaks using ordinary water - there were none - refilled with a new mix of Bluecol and promptly forgot about it.

Three years later I sold the car, it had not leaked at all in that period and behaved itself perfectly. It also had an annual flush and new coolant.

remember it's only a bodge if it DOESN'T worK

Would it have lasted longer if I had used an egg?

I think the trick is not to allow it to fester amid loads of sludge and other rubbish, flush out the crap, just allow the chemicals to leach through the holes do their job and - presto - Nice One Albert!

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:42 pm

eggs taste better ...lol

your right if you flush out the crap it maybe all right , i think you where lucky though
i have seen many a knackered engine after that stuff blocked up the rad cores ..

it worked for you yes so NOT a bodge , you see the bodges , sorry fixes i'm doing at the moment

trying to rengineer the air suspension on my LDV V8 van .. getting there

davemgb · Post by **davemgb** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:09 pm

P6 pump is same pattern as MGB GT V8, but probably without a premium price

Later 90's MGR V8 have later Range Rover pattern.

I've had a leak that showed as water coming from drain hole, it cleared up before I got round to changing it !! eventually changed the pump because of corrosion on one of the hose connection causing a leak.

Dave

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:41 pm

I got the P6 pump yesterday and it was the same bolt pattern etc as my old one - Result

Went to fit it and the pulley on mine is not a standard P6 unit as the "ears" are threaded to accept bolts

My water pulley has the bolts on it (welded) and 1/2 thickness nuts for the engine side of the pulley

Out comes the drill and removed threads to get it to fit.

Bolt it up and the blts snag the water outlet pipe
Filed the rear of the pump flange to get clearance

Got it bolted up hoses on and full of water but thaught better of it to fire it up at 10:30.

So if anyone is interested to get it to fit in the engine bay of the GT40 the short P6 pump needed to be fitted and presumably this means a different front cover r are all the bolt patterns identical?

Looking at it a "normal" pulley would not fit as the crank pulley is further forward hence the need for a double pulley (belt runds on front pulley) and the front pulley is smaller diameter so the flow should be increased

The joys of modified cars!

IAn