Water Leak
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- Ian Anderson
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- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Water Leak
Took the Gt40 for a drive and came back after a few miles of smiles
Decided to let it get to full temp and get the fans cycled to check as in 4 weeks I'm of to Le Mans and it will be hot there!
Well it all went well and fans cycled.
Pushed car into garage as I cannot get out - car too wide with roof on the door or garage too narrow - Mrs says I cannot extend!
Turned around and there was a small mark where the car had been siting - enough to figure it was water and not oil.
today I went out and tightened all the jubilee clips around the cooling system and then ran it to temp again and got the fans to cycle.
got under the car and it was dripping - once every 5 - 8 secs.
Felt around and thaught I had the leak but even tightening still resulted in the small water drops.
Removed the inspection hatch behind the seats to check around the water pump and feeling behind the water pump pulley got some damp areas - not a lot but then the drip was npt big.
So now what do you think - new water pump - replace seals (if that is possible) or try a barrs leaks (if it;s still available)
Just option 1 is going to be a pig working inside the cockpit and through a hatch - something along the lines of keyhole surgery!
And if option 1 new pump is the way are the all the same to fit a 1990 3.9 lump?
Cheers
ian
Decided to let it get to full temp and get the fans cycled to check as in 4 weeks I'm of to Le Mans and it will be hot there!
Well it all went well and fans cycled.
Pushed car into garage as I cannot get out - car too wide with roof on the door or garage too narrow - Mrs says I cannot extend!
Turned around and there was a small mark where the car had been siting - enough to figure it was water and not oil.
today I went out and tightened all the jubilee clips around the cooling system and then ran it to temp again and got the fans to cycle.
got under the car and it was dripping - once every 5 - 8 secs.
Felt around and thaught I had the leak but even tightening still resulted in the small water drops.
Removed the inspection hatch behind the seats to check around the water pump and feeling behind the water pump pulley got some damp areas - not a lot but then the drip was npt big.
So now what do you think - new water pump - replace seals (if that is possible) or try a barrs leaks (if it;s still available)
Just option 1 is going to be a pig working inside the cockpit and through a hatch - something along the lines of keyhole surgery!
And if option 1 new pump is the way are the all the same to fit a 1990 3.9 lump?
Cheers
ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
- Ian Anderson
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- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Thanks Chris - it's about what I thaught - why sell a 50p seal when you can sell a £60 pump?
So are all pumps on 3.9 EFi Hotwire engines the same?
Anyone have a part number? Or point me to one on E pay or somewhere
Barrs will have to work this afternoon as I need to drop it at a repairers to ver ventilation system fixed
Ian
So are all pumps on 3.9 EFi Hotwire engines the same?
Anyone have a part number? Or point me to one on E pay or somewhere
Barrs will have to work this afternoon as I need to drop it at a repairers to ver ventilation system fixed
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
Rimmer Bros only list one pump (for the 3.9) , so I guess they are all the same:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/rove ... ne/cooling
Chris.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/rove ... ne/cooling
Chris.
Last edited by ChrisJC on Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Series IIA 4.6 V8
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R/R P38 4.6 V8
R/R L405 4.4 SDV8
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- Ian Anderson
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- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Thanks for that
Now my engine has a nember form a sequence sold to Morgan.
It was made in 1990 and is hotwire EFi
It runs V belt (not flat / serpentine belt)
Does anyone know if the Morgan / TVR / Landrover / Range Rover pumps for hotwire are the same units?
I'd love to order one up and not have to strip it then order and wait!
Thanks
Ian
Now my engine has a nember form a sequence sold to Morgan.
It was made in 1990 and is hotwire EFi
It runs V belt (not flat / serpentine belt)
Does anyone know if the Morgan / TVR / Landrover / Range Rover pumps for hotwire are the same units?
I'd love to order one up and not have to strip it then order and wait!
Thanks
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
- davemgb
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- Location: Just north of watford
Water pump fits to the front cover so that is the important item to match the pump to - presumably you have a 1990 or earlier cover rather than one of the later versions with the concentre oil pump.
If the pump is like the one on Katanaman's sig then I think it is a P6 or SD1 version - both have the same pump to timing cover gasket but the pulley style is different, SD1 puts the drive belt far forward compared to the P6.
Range rover style front covers place the pump higher above the crank centre line.
Dave
If the pump is like the one on Katanaman's sig then I think it is a P6 or SD1 version - both have the same pump to timing cover gasket but the pulley style is different, SD1 puts the drive belt far forward compared to the P6.
Range rover style front covers place the pump higher above the crank centre line.
Dave
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Ian,
Before you start taking it to pieces have you checked all the the hoses including the small one that comes off the back of the water pump and feeds the heater, easily missed and could explain water around the water pump.
If not and you have to change the pump you may find you have the SD1 front cover and P6 pump combination to keep the front of the engine as short as possible.
Picture
Before you start taking it to pieces have you checked all the the hoses including the small one that comes off the back of the water pump and feeds the heater, easily missed and could explain water around the water pump.
If not and you have to change the pump you may find you have the SD1 front cover and P6 pump combination to keep the front of the engine as short as possible.
Picture

- Ian Anderson
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- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Well I'm baffled further
I took my car for some work to a bloke in Newbury and drove it back - both ways at 50 - 65 mph (about 2500 rpm in 5th)
Before I went I thought netter safe than sorry and put in a rad weld (100 ml tub - that was supposed to do about 2/3 of the volume of water in my system.
checked the water this evening and it has not used any
But I never had it up to fan cycle temp on the trip as the traffic was actually flowing - it was wet on the way back too (the old Goodrich tyres are slippery as a bar of soap)
So any ideas? Do I try to get it up to full temp and see if it leaks?
Or just say bugger it and start stripping it?
Problem is Le Mans in 2 weeks is likely to be really hot 35 plus weather!
Ian
I took my car for some work to a bloke in Newbury and drove it back - both ways at 50 - 65 mph (about 2500 rpm in 5th)
Before I went I thought netter safe than sorry and put in a rad weld (100 ml tub - that was supposed to do about 2/3 of the volume of water in my system.
checked the water this evening and it has not used any
But I never had it up to fan cycle temp on the trip as the traffic was actually flowing - it was wet on the way back too (the old Goodrich tyres are slippery as a bar of soap)
So any ideas? Do I try to get it up to full temp and see if it leaks?
Or just say bugger it and start stripping it?
Problem is Le Mans in 2 weeks is likely to be really hot 35 plus weather!
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
these are very cheap for water pumps ..
http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/ISLAND- ... 02QQsofpZ0
and fast delivery too
i NEVER use that radweld rubbish , it'll end up blocking up you rad tubes and then you may have even more cooling problems .if it was me i would flush that crap out as soon as poss , if it leaking find it and fix it .
don't risk it really over heating
why they sell that crap is beyond me , you might as well stick an egg in it
http://search.stores.ebay.co.uk/ISLAND- ... 02QQsofpZ0
and fast delivery too
i NEVER use that radweld rubbish , it'll end up blocking up you rad tubes and then you may have even more cooling problems .if it was me i would flush that crap out as soon as poss , if it leaking find it and fix it .
don't risk it really over heating
why they sell that crap is beyond me , you might as well stick an egg in it
remember it's only a bodge if it DOSN'T worK