Removing a RV8 crankshaft pulley?

Rick-Manta · Post by **Rick-Manta** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 11:34 am

This had been giving me some right grief for ages now. Basically, I have been trying to undo the crankshaft pulley bolt on my nearly stripped down 3.5 engine which is just proving impossible.

Following some advise I've had already: I've got someone to stand on the block which is laying upside down (to stop the whole block tipping over), I've jammed a wooden hammer handle in one of the crankshaft counter weights against the side of the block (to stop the crank itself turning over) and I'm using a long crack bar with all my weight trying to undo the bastard thing to no avail!

Any other ideas please, I'm really stuck?

Pocket rocket · Post by **Pocket rocket** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:36 pm

I take that the problem is the bolt won't budge as opposed to being unable to jam the crank effectively.

Have you tried an impact air gun.

Heat on the bolt

longer extension (scaffold pole) on your breaker bar

GOOD LUCK -I thought it was only me that got stuck on things like this

v8alex · Post by **v8alex** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 12:38 pm

There's no doubt many techniques to free stubborn bolts....

Have you tried any thread penetrant / releasing agent? I would stand the block edge on and fill the cavity in the crank pulley with PlusGas and leave it overnight then have another go.

Alternatively, take the whole lot to a friendly garage with an air impact driver

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:13 pm

Have you got a vehicle you can bolt the engine block into to hold it?

Longer breaker bar & 3/4 drive socket set.

Also make sure you wedge the crankshaft at no's 1 & 2 to reduce the risk of bending it.

Chris.

winkle · Post by **winkle** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 1:44 pm

Rick,
I would definately spray some release oil (WD40 or similar) on it. use hammer and an old extension bar or steel bar and tap the end of the crankshaft bolt. Then give it some stick with an impact air gun, works for me!

All the best
Steve

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 2:37 pm

I knocked up a handle that I could bolt onto the damper using the pulley bolt holes. I used to old square section steel mig welded up. (Old school table legs!). The handle was a couple of feet long and can be made to hit something to stop the damper turning. (Like the floor or chassis).

Post by **katanaman** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:25 pm

Impact gun has always worked for me.

jrv8 · Post by **jrv8** » Tue Jan 08, 2008 5:48 pm

Hi,

Take the block to your nearest tyre depot and get them to use the wheel gun on it.
It'll come off with that for sure.
Sometimes they're a right sod to shift, but will always let go with the air impact tools.
Jim

Rick-Manta · Post by **Rick-Manta** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:09 pm

Thanks for the replies. I don't have a impact gun and buying an air compressor is something for the future but not the nearby

I've soaked the thing in plusgas and WD40 but the trouble is I think with the 160 ft lb torque setting. Once I've changed the cam and timing gears, got the cover back on etc, it'll be pretty hard to torque back up by hand.

I could ask the tyre centres, lifting the engine into my boot may be difficult mind!

Thanks again, I'll keep trying.

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Wed Jan 09, 2008 10:12 pm

Rick-Manta wrote:Thanks for the replies. I don't have a impact gun and buying an air compressor is something for the future but not the nearby

I've soaked the thing in plusgas and WD40 but the trouble is I think with the 160 ft lb torque setting. Once I've changed the cam and timing gears, got the cover back on etc, it'll be pretty hard to torque back up by hand.

I could ask the tyre centres, lifting the engine into my boot may be difficult mind!

Thanks again, I'll keep trying.

A good torque wrench will allow you to torque it up but you will have to lean on it pretty hard! (That's why I made a holder for my damper)