My new RV8 3.5.

[Coops]

dicky where did you get the prices from mate?

[kiwicar]

Grinding down the thrust faces of the bearings I did on my chevy using a sheet of 400 grit wet and dry (wet) on a flat surface (granit bench top in the kitchen) it needs to be flat, If you don't have the above try a piece of float glass (most glass made in the last 30 years) or a old mirror (not a shaving one ). Use a figure 8 action and rotate the bearing in your hand often and keep measuring in several places on the bearing face to keep a check on how you are getting on. Take your time.
Mike

[mgbv8]

Dicky
I didnt get on with the hi flow oil pump kit.
It just ate dissy drive cogs.(the one on the end of the cam) The hi flow does seem to generate a lot of stress on the drive gear at high rpm. Even when I went down to 15/40 from the 20/50 I had been using. After spending 200 quid on new drive cogs and one dissy gear I shelved the hi flow and put a new set of standard cogs back in the pump. I'm still using 15/40 and when she is hot the idle oil pressure does drop to about 23 psi, but it comes back up to a tad over 40 psi at about 1800 rpm.

Just a bit of info that may save youy a bit of trouble.

[dicky]

Thanks MGBV8, it's info like that which really helps.

So I can cross that off my list then and use std gears or source SD1 cover.

I used the Real steel catolouge mainly with a bit of RPI and Rimmerbros bits.

I will get my bores checked and if ok will get a flex-hone and fit STD rings.

Anyone know which grit flex-hone to use?

Also, should i use new mains and big end bolts?

[mgbv8]

For what it costs. I would consider getting the engine rebored and using oversized rings.
I've done this at Real steel and it was worth the money in my estimation. Just make sure you set the piston ring gaps properly if you are going to be ragging the engine.

Perry

[Coops]

Thanks MGBV8, it's info like that which really helps.

So I can cross that off my list then and use std gears or source SD1 cover.

I used the Real steel catolouge mainly with a bit of RPI and Rimmerbros bits.

I will get my bores checked and if ok will get a flex-hone and fit STD rings.

Anyone know which grit flex-hone to use?

Also, should i use new mains and big end bolts?

I seem to be saying the same thing daily
in the members discount area are a few companies that will give you discount, and are cheaper than the ones you are trying dicky.

[dicky]

Took the block, crank and pistons to my local engine shop and the guy had a look at it and said it would be cheaper for me to get hold of another block as 3 of the liners have sunken and all would need a re-bore.
He also said the crank would need a polish due to acid errosion and the pistons would need changing.

That would mean new liners and pistons and close to £400 so will have to scrap the block.


Anyone want any parts off the engine.

[dicky]

Sold the block a while ago for 99p to be made in to a coffie table I belive.

Just picked up a 1992 Range Rover 3.9 Vouge SE for a steal, checked the engine code and it is also the high CR pre-cat version.

Just noticed the transmission temp light comes on as soon as I start it and then goes out after a few mins than back on.

Could this be a dodgy switch?

[bodger]

make sure there is no sign of overheating on the 3.9 engine
i asume it's still in the vehicle and running ?

the 3.9's do suffer from overheating / cracked blocks and or liners