My new RV8 3.5.

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:23 pm

I used one of those on a mini years ago and on a cb125t aswell worked a treat, easy to do a nice job if you have a speed control on your drill.
For what its worth my first range rover had the high comp (10.5:1) pistons and a comp gasket on an R87 cam (whatever spec that was) lightly skimmed and ported SD1 heads on the twin stromberg manifold (with strombergs). I thought it was a nice combo on the RR, nice flexible engine that would rev well. actually had it on a boxer set up with 4 su's for a while but they were a b****gr to keep ballanced, though the su's were a bit "used"

Mike

Paul B · Post by **Paul B** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 6:41 pm

mgbv8 wrote:Its one of these

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop? ... ze+breaker

The beauty of these is they will remove any slightly raised ridges or scores, as well as smooth the wear ridge at the top of the bore, if it is only minimal. The ball hone merely follows whatever shape the cylinder walls are, though it does mean it doesn't just hone to tops of any hollows.

I've used a mixture of the two on slightly worn cylinders to get the best out of them.

The Original Tom · Post by **The Original Tom** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 8:25 pm

No, 'snot one of those. I was advised against those as to get the best you need to stay dead straight and well balanced - i.e you need a rig to keep it straight or you'll do more harm than good (i.e gouge it with the corner of the stone). It's one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-1-2-Ne ... enameZWD2V
(however I'd get one slightly bigger.)

All the wires with beads on them are plastic and very flexible, so even if you go in a little off-centre they don't wear with bias.
Use a fine grit (bigger number) and take more time, as the hatchings will be finer.

HTH
Tom.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 9:22 pm

Tom
I've got one of those in the toilet, he he !

Looks a funky bit of kit mate. And at that price, I may as well have one in the toolbox for just in case eh?

Paul B · Post by **Paul B** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 2:13 pm

The Original Tom wrote:No, 'snot one of those. I was advised against those as to get the best you need to stay dead straight and well balanced - i.e you need a rig to keep it straight or you'll do more harm than good (i.e gouge it with the corner of the stone).

Impossible, in my experience. The ones I have used are fully floating and spring loaded, and as the stones are pivoted around the centre it is literally impossible to dig a corner in.

ihatesissycars · Post by **ihatesissycars** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 2:53 pm

Dicky, run a country mile away from the standard timing chain set. Its rubbish, for the few quid extra you could have a much more reliable setup which will maintain engine power alot better.

Also, a non standard cam may well be cheap but again for a bit more money you could get yourself a decent hike in power which will make for a much better more fun engine.

A real steel Hurrican cam is a good choice that i've personally used and can reccomend.

Post by **katanaman** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:06 pm

Paul B wrote:
The Original Tom wrote:No, 'snot one of those. I was advised against those as to get the best you need to stay dead straight and well balanced - i.e you need a rig to keep it straight or you'll do more harm than good (i.e gouge it with the corner of the stone).
Impossible, in my experience. The ones I have used are fully floating and spring loaded, and as the stones are pivoted around the centre it is literally impossible to dig a corner in.

I would agree, the stone type is far better and more accurate. The only thing I have ever managed to do wrong with this type is to go down too far and I clipped the bottom and broke a stone. Nothing to do with the tool just my stupidity.

ihatesissycars · Post by **ihatesissycars** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:08 pm

Thats the same one I used on my interim block, worked a treat! It helps to show any high spots in the bore too.

dicky · Post by **dicky** » Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:12 pm

ihatesissycars wrote:Dicky, run a country mile away from the standard timing chain set. Its rubbish.

Also, a standard cam may well be cheap but again for a bit more money you could get yourself a decent hike in power which will make for a much better more fun engine.

Thanks for the advice, with that Cam allong with my CR of 9.8:1 and the larger valve heads what power should I expect as it is 161bhp standard.

Also when checking the bores for wear do I need to use a dial bore gauge or can I use my caliper?

Post by **katanaman** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 8:04 am

has to be a bore gauge doesn't have to have a dial on it though.

dicky · Post by **dicky** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:12 am

Also what kind of bolts hold the bigend caps in place? Are the a spline type?

Here are some more pics on my new Camera (Canon 400D & 50MM F1.4)

Post by **katanaman** » Thu Aug 02, 2007 6:55 pm

no they aren't spline, a multi point socket fits them as opposed to the hex socket

dicky · Post by **dicky** » Sat Aug 04, 2007 11:46 am

katanaman wrote:no they aren't spline, a multi point socket fits them as opposed to the hex socket

Cheers, got some this morning, worked well.

I managed to remove all the pistons and rods and crank.

I got to work measureing the crank journals. I have been refering to the Rover Workshop manual for tolerances.

Rover say Big-Ends=50.800mm and Mains=58.400mm

Mign measure up at Big-Ends=50.78mm and Mains 58.35mm.

I gess this means I need to get the crank ground to undersize?

Post by **katanaman** » Sat Aug 04, 2007 6:38 pm

what did you measure with? if it was with a vernier then your measurements wont be that accurate. you need to use a proper micrometer if you did then just ignore me

dicky · Post by **dicky** » Sat Aug 04, 2007 7:23 pm

I used a digital caliper... Are they not acurate enough?

Would you say that the crank needs to be ground?