Valve spring retainers

[Devonrod]

In one of the RV8 tuning books it states that early SD1 valve spring retainers are better than those used in later models, is there a way to ID these ? I have a pair of early SD1 heads to take them off to fit to my 4.6 heads, here is a pic with the SD1 on the left and the 4.6 retainers on the right, the 4.6 has a lower area on the outside of the top, the SD1 ones are 20 grams and the 4.6 19 grams.

[sidecar]

I think that the one with the ridge around the edge is made using sintered metal, (I think!). The other is machined out of a solid lump which makes it stronger. You can also see the machining marks on the solid one. I use the older ones in my 4.6. They also seem to suit some of the double valve springs better because the inner spring will sit on a flat seat. I have seen some inner springs that are a fraction too small to sit on the retainer properly.

[SimpleSimon]

I think that the one with the ridge around the edge is made using sintered metal, (I think!). The other is machined out of a solid lump which makes it stronger. You can also see the machining marks on the solid one. I use the older ones in my 4.6. They also seem to suit some of the double valve springs better because the inner spring will sit on a flat seat. I have seen some inner springs that are a fraction too small to sit on the retainer properly.

Yep the ones on the right are what TVR fitted to their double sprung RV8's a right bodge the inner spring just frets around the collet boss what Sidecar says makes sense regarding the earlier Dave, in saying this never seen one fail on the TVR cars with the weaker caps fitted but their fitted pressures are not huge anyway inc doubles IMO. I have defected to Comp Cams ones due to going to a solid profile cam set.

[Devonrod]

Thanks for the replies, I think I will use them then, I only have single valve springs, a set of Real Steel DW060 that ive had for years, I don't think they sell them anymore. Its only a mild engine anyway, I was looking for strength rather than breaking at high revs !

[sidecar]

Thanks for the replies, I think I will use them then, I only have single valve springs, a set of Real Steel DW060 that ive had for years, I don't think they sell them anymore. Its only a mild engine anyway, I was looking for strength rather than breaking at high revs !

When you say "use them" which ones do you mean?

[Devonrod]

Thanks for the replies, I think I will use them then, I only have single valve springs, a set of Real Steel DW060 that ive had for years, I don't think they sell them anymore. Its only a mild engine anyway, I was looking for strength rather than breaking at high revs !

When you say "use them" which ones do you mean?

I will use the SD1 ones, my very good friend Devonman on here donated a set of good heads to my project after I repaired mine only to find them warped !
I got a short 4.6 engine, top hat, from Turners, 216 Crane cam I got in 1989! and the rest is going to be transferred from my old 3.5 P6 lump,
P6 water pump, cast headers, Edelbrock twin two barrel manifold with weber carbs.

[bigaldart]

For what it's worth, yes, the retainers with the step are sintered and I wouldn't use them if you want to rev the engine. The Crane Chrome Moly we have had a few breakages with these, they split straight across the middle. Touch Wood, since we went to the SD1 type we have had zero issues and the engine has seen in excess of 8000 rpm at times. Unless I find something really good in the aftermarket I will continue to use the earlier Rover retainers. Regarding using with a dual spring we did see some slight interference with the inner spring but were able to touch these up on the lathe for s snug fit. Beware though the material is VERY hard!

Alan