rover 3.5 cooling
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rover 3.5 cooling
just fitted a rr 3.5 engine in a stag, ran it up but within minutes it started to run hot, would of expected this to take 10-15 minutes, the temp gauge was rising rapidly really quickly. The rad has a new 4 core matrix. This feels cold in every part of the rad top/bottom etc.
upon several start ups tried the old heater and blower trick but cold air only. The hoses to the matrix heater feel very hot.
I also undid the top hose from the rad and water didnt come out at all.
My initial feeling is 80% the water pump failure, or 20% air lock. Is there a way of checking the water pump? should it come rushing out from the topof the rad on turn over?
mick
upon several start ups tried the old heater and blower trick but cold air only. The hoses to the matrix heater feel very hot.
I also undid the top hose from the rad and water didnt come out at all.
My initial feeling is 80% the water pump failure, or 20% air lock. Is there a way of checking the water pump? should it come rushing out from the topof the rad on turn over?
mick
the last thing I did last night was to remove the top hose from the rad, lift the hose high and secure it, and try to fill the engine block through the thermostat. the level dropped in the hose over a couple of hours so must be flowly slowly into the engine.
So I think both of you chrisjc and DEVONMAN are right, If this doesnt work then I'm going to remove the stat.
Thanks for your thoughts
mick
So I think both of you chrisjc and DEVONMAN are right, If this doesnt work then I'm going to remove the stat.
Thanks for your thoughts
mick
- Ian Anderson
- Forum Contributor
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- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
is your cabin heater on?
If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator
Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad
IAn
If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator
Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad
IAn
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
Just removed the stat, didn't open properly, so replaced it, will do as above tomorrow.Ian Anderson wrote:is your cabin heater on?
If it is there are times when the flow through the heater matrix is more than through the radiator
Try closing the heater off or "mole gripping" the pipe to the heater to force the water through the rad
IAn
-
- Top Dog
- Posts: 1279
- Joined: Mon May 04, 2009 6:53 am
A quick test for a stat I use....
Push the stat open and slip a piece of string through it. When 'er indorrs is not looking, turn on the kettle and drop the stat in. Hold it off the bottom and you will soon see if it opens or not.
Alternative method for more domesticated types,
Put some water in a saucepan (?) find the stove and carry on from the string bit......

Push the stat open and slip a piece of string through it. When 'er indorrs is not looking, turn on the kettle and drop the stat in. Hold it off the bottom and you will soon see if it opens or not.
Alternative method for more domesticated types,
Put some water in a saucepan (?) find the stove and carry on from the string bit......


Cheers,
John
John
Hoes? not really into gardening much
bodger wrote:check and make sure you havn't connected the hoes on the back of the water pump housing to the blanked off outlet .. on some there are 2 stubs pipes , only one is open ...
i only know becuse i did it
Ok now you've got me wondering. Looking down on the back of the pump there are 2 pipes, both connected, the RHS goes to the RHS cylinder head, the LHS is connected to a metal pipe that disappears under the plenum.