TVR V8 rods.....

Lewis · Post by **Lewis** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:22 pm

Couple of sets of those TVR 3.9 rods on eBay at the moment....

A la.

Now, there any noticable differences between these and standard rods or are they just balanced stock items?

Just looking for something nice to go between rod or crank (and something that isn't a hideously expensive set of H beam rods or something

)

I'm thinking of a set of these, decent set of 3.9 pistons, a clean 3.9 block I've picked up and an ARP set for the bottom end........Induction and valvetrain/heads I'm going to think about later along with the fuelling

I think I'll just pick up a nice crank from somewhere soon, don't really want to tear my existing engine apart as it's such a solid item!

Oh - anyone recommend any aftermarket forged or hyper' pistons? I know stock items handle some nitrous well but I want this engine to sing out without a problem! Flicked through a catalogue recently that seem to have some in but I'll be damned if I can remember what it was or where I put it (knowing my shelf it's probably from 1992 or something

Ta all,
L

toughy V8 · Post by **toughy V8** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:35 pm

they dont look any different, to me anyway. yet group a rods never looked much different and they were about 5 times stronger, dont think tvr used different rods in there engines. id say there worth the £60 starting price but normal rods are really good many have revved them past 7k without any issues

ihatesissycars · Post by **ihatesissycars** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:37 pm

They're just 3.9/3.5 rods. Now't special but very very strong for standard equipment. Few people get problems with them.

As for pistons then unless you have loads of money for forged jobbies you're out of luck it seems.

I was thinking along these same lines so used a later mix of 4.0 and 4.6 bits as they have a much stronger piston.

I have a complete 4.0 rotating assembly on ebay at the mo if you're interested? You'd just need to ensure you use a later interim 3.9 block to use them. The 4.0 rods are longer which gives better rod angularity (can't remember why its better now!) which gives a stronger bottom end.

Lewis · Post by **Lewis** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:40 pm

Intriguing! Won't the 4.0 extra length limit the engine's ability to rev somewhat? Kind of what I was hoping to keep.....however, if I can get a much stronger piston by going that route (i.e. using the standard one, as you say) then I might consider it.

Can get a crossbolted bottom end then

I'd be interested in adding your eBay bits to me watch list, if you have a link

ihatesissycars · Post by **ihatesissycars** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:44 pm

Well the stroke of the crank is the same for the 3.9 and 4.0 but i believe the extra length of the rod is accomodated by having the gudgeon pin purther up in the piston so that it should still rev its nuts off.

A crossbolted block is one way of fitting them but a late 3.9 interim block has the required internal clearances to clear the larger cranks (the 4.0 and 4.6 cranks have different sized counter weights) so all you'd need to do is have the mains turned down to 2.3" and it should all go in.

Stevieturbo had a standard 4.6 bottom end in his 500hp twin turbo engine, try that with a 3.9!

Lewis · Post by **Lewis** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 7:52 pm

try that with a 3.9!

Suggestion or a warning?

Don't tempt me!

I'd have to have remote mount turbos though, got NO space anywhere in the bay anymore

Maybe it's time to lose those inner wings!

I found your eBay auction btw! Will read it after dinner!

ihatesissycars · Post by **ihatesissycars** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 8:04 pm

The tops of the 3.9 pistons would come apart with too much bang. The 4.0/4.6 pistons don't have that big ol' slot in the oil ring groove which is the weak spot.