rover starter

bones · Post by **bones** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:00 pm

hi all, ive got a sd1, and for ages its had problems with the starter motor, the usual try to start it the starter just goes click, hit with a bar and it turns over, ive changed the battery and the starter and still the same thing, changed earth cables and power cable from battery and still the same, any ideas welcome,

rich

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 3:51 pm

At a guess
The solonoid that engages the gear onto the flywheel is no "longer funtioning to specification" I would guess the contact that enables power to the motor is burnt/ dropped off/ dirty/ bent so the "clunk" is ok as the gear is engaged but no power to start it turning. I would get an exchange unit.
Mike

bones · Post by **bones** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:01 pm

hi Mike, ive got a new starter, and it still does the same thing, thanks for the reply

rich

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:26 pm

Rich
Check to see if you have a starter relay. If you have a system where the ign switch operates a relay to feed the starter solenoid, it may just be that not giving full power to the solenoid.

RoverP6B · Post by **RoverP6B** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:36 am

The P6B certainly features a starter motor relay. If it fails to operate, then of course you won't be going anywhere.

Ron.

bones · Post by **bones** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:36 pm

ok, now for something really stupid, there is a white and brown wire that is not attached to the solanoid, there are 2 spade terminals on the solanoid with wires going to the inhibitor switch , so where should the white and brown go,power gets to the starter, thinking about it it was all right until i had the new gearbox and b+m shifter fitted

rich

bones · Post by **bones** » Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:24 pm

ok i know my last post was stupid but where should that wire go, as its got a male connector on it,does it need to connect to one of the inhibitor wires, i dont want to have to keep hitting the damn thing at the rolling road day, its bad enough having to do that on the fire up lane,

rich

bones · Post by **bones** » Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:46 pm

its ok, it seems to be working , at the moment,

rich

bones · Post by **bones** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:24 pm

ok, anyone who was at the rolling road will understand the problems ive been having, ive changed the starter, the earth wires and life wires, also changed the relays, and still it just clicks, i can try turning over 2 times and it will suddenley start or it could be 25 times before it starts, any help needed,

rich

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 12:48 pm

OK - have you got a standard flywheel / ring gear?

On those starters (and any modern starter in fact), the solenoid moves the pinion gear forward to engage with the flywheel gear. When it's moved forward enough to be properly engaged, the contacts in the relay make, and the motor then turns and spins the engine. This setup means that if the pinion gear can't move forward enough (e.g. ring gear is too close to the engine), then the relay will click, but the motor won't start to turn.....

Just a theory?

Chris.

bones · Post by **bones** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:12 pm

Hi Chris, i never fitted the tf 727 box, so am not sure if that was changed or the original ring gear and plate were used. If it is to close could some spacers or washers be put between the starter to bring it back slightly,

Rich

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 2:50 pm

If it were me, I'd make an aluminium spacer to move the starter away by a mm or so. I think if you just used washers, then the starter would move too much as I think the starter must register in the hole in the block casting to hold it properly.

Chris.

Ian Anderson · Post by **Ian Anderson** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 3:07 pm

Rich
Before making spacers etc
losten the bolts on your starter motor and pull it away from the crank / drive centerline and bolt it up again - sometimes some movement there and it causes the starter and fly cogs to hit instead of slipping in to place.

By doing the above you may generate enough clearance to get the starter throw out to slide home more easily.

It works the opposite way when the starter cogs are worn - need to ease the starter inwards to get a better mesh!

Of course if you have no play that blows this theory out the water

Ian

ian.stewart · Post by **ian.stewart** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 4:54 pm

Have you moved the battery to the boot, and, if you did, what cable did you use???

bones · Post by **bones** » Tue Sep 16, 2008 6:53 am

the batterey has,nt been moved , ive only had this problem since the gearbox has been fitted, and ive run out of ideas as what to try next, i will see if therer is any play in it at the weekend ,if not i will make a spacer up and try that, Are there any other things i can try,