Seasoned blocks only for flanged liners......why?

[RoverP6B]

I was wondering,...why is it advised (at least by V8 Turner Engineering) that flanged (or top hat if you prefer) liners are only fitted into seasoned blocks?

I appreciate that a seasoned block is more stable in a metalurgical sense, but brand new 'green' blocks have standard liners fitted.

Why would it appear that flanged liners then should not be fitted to 'green' blocks?

Ron.

[katanaman]

Its old tradition in the tuning industry that if you have the choice you use seasoned parts where pos for exactly the reasons you stated. The block will have moved to where its going to move too and any casting stresses will now be removed. Generally this means that when you machine it, it will stay where you put it. If new you cant guarantee what was square for example will still be square after a few heat cycles. Can you do it with a new block, course you can but why anyway? Why pay £1400 for a new block and then another £1000 for liners?

[chodjinn]

as marki says, you can pick up an old block for peanuts, free if its got dropped liners/cracks if you're lucky. There's no point wasting money on a new block, Rovers are expensive enough to tune as it is!

I could have bought myself a nice Reyland coswoth motor by the time I'm done with mine lol

[HairbearTE]

It certainly isn't a case of 'seasoned blocks only' for flanged liners. The main reason they are used is as Marki points out, cost. The rover is expensive enough to build without spending 3 grand on the block to start with. There are definately some instances where a seasoned block is a preferable starting point, do not however immediately assume that the rover v8 is one of them. Whilst a cast iron block will actually have hardened usefully over 100k+ miles or so an aluminium block will have experienced movement by the liners in the block and movement of main caps etc. Aluminium has higher thermal expansion than iron and the blocks don't fare so well over the same 100k miles as an equivalent iron block would. Another thing to consider is this: for the amount you spend on top hats you could buy a new block that won't crack anyway if cooled properly. Personally I think top hats are great if you're going to use them for running a 96mm bore to get more cubes out of the old rover, but even then i'd like to start with a block that isn't cracked. If you only need a 94mm bore then a new cosworth casting looks good for the money.

[Robrover]

I believe TR Spares in Adelaide do a 5 litre flanged x bolted block with pistons, crank for AUD $5,000.

[TVRleigh]

If you only need a 94mm bore then a new cosworth casting looks good for the money.

I wish I wen't that way now, esp as I was not told the threads my block was U/S untill after they had done the liners Grrr.