Can anyone recommend a cam for me.
will be in a 4.0 X-bolted with standard new style heads. (I think they are quite good)
need a max bhp of 230/240 (If I get too much I can program the ECU to retard a bit so the max bhp drops off a bit)
but would like as much torque as possible as this is not limited.
CR will be about 9.5:1 - 10:1 depends on how much is taken off when the deck the bock. and how much a tin gasket gives me.
Ideally would prefer not to have to pocket the pistons.
I've been recommended to get a Typhoon. but open to recommendations.
to answer a few questions. (most are sort of coved in my sig.)
rev limit, well as I'm limited on BHP but not torque, a limit of 5500 - 6500
It will only be used on the track in a race series.
The block has been top-hatted, all new bearings.
Lightened and balanced rods
balanced pistons
balanced standard crank
It's got 42mm trumpets with matching base. will match head inlets and outlets.
as its going to be used for racing only then its going to be ok to have a power band, but also as I'm BHP limited, I'll be mainly looking for torque once I hit my 230 BHP limit.
For now it may be easier to stick with hydraulic cam and lifters, manly due to the extra costs of going solid.
Thanks
Leigh
Help selecting a cam
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Help selecting a cam
Current V8 car TVR 400SE 240 BHP
Current Project TVR Tasmin Race, with 3.9 running at 230 BHP
Currently building a 4.6 300 BHP Xbolted Engine for it. Solid Lifters and Group A rockers, Stange 4 heads, Pocketed piston, fully balanced.
Current Project TVR Tasmin Race, with 3.9 running at 230 BHP
Currently building a 4.6 300 BHP Xbolted Engine for it. Solid Lifters and Group A rockers, Stange 4 heads, Pocketed piston, fully balanced.
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CastleMGBV8
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- Location: Sidcup, Kent, UK
Leigh,
No need to go solid lifter as as quite a mild cam is going to give you what you need with a nice spread of healthy torque.
Have a word with Paul at V8 tuner, he is doing some good deals on Crower cams at the moment and will give BBS members a discount on cams he doesn't already have on special offer.
Your basically looking for a cam that peaks at no more than 5500RPM, it will still rev past that point but there will be no need for you to exceed 6000RPM that will save you money as there is no need for expensive valve gear components.
As mentioned in an earlier post just do a stage job on the heads, if you Google Peter Burgess abd look at his econotune heads for the Rover you will see what is required, you should already have waisted stem valves so it's not a big job. That alone will give you 230BHP on a 4.0 engine. so the cam is almost overkill except as I suggested to max out the torque at low to mid range.
Also if you are using all your original engine internal components, they are usually very well balanced, just make sure your flywheel clutch and front pulley are all neutrally balanced and you should be fine.
Kevin.
No need to go solid lifter as as quite a mild cam is going to give you what you need with a nice spread of healthy torque.
Have a word with Paul at V8 tuner, he is doing some good deals on Crower cams at the moment and will give BBS members a discount on cams he doesn't already have on special offer.
Your basically looking for a cam that peaks at no more than 5500RPM, it will still rev past that point but there will be no need for you to exceed 6000RPM that will save you money as there is no need for expensive valve gear components.
As mentioned in an earlier post just do a stage job on the heads, if you Google Peter Burgess abd look at his econotune heads for the Rover you will see what is required, you should already have waisted stem valves so it's not a big job. That alone will give you 230BHP on a 4.0 engine. so the cam is almost overkill except as I suggested to max out the torque at low to mid range.
Also if you are using all your original engine internal components, they are usually very well balanced, just make sure your flywheel clutch and front pulley are all neutrally balanced and you should be fine.
Kevin.
