35DLM8 Issue with fitting

[southernd]

Hi,

I bought a 35DLM8 to replace my current distributor however when I went to fit it the vacuum and amp where in different places. The vacuum fouls on the water inlet and the amp catches on the other side, in fact the pics in the post below show the issue perfectly:

http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... ght=35dlm8

I didn't try ramming it in for fear of breaking something but are this style of unit still available? Has anyone else managed to force one of these in? The engine is a JRV8 unit from a 1982-4 Range Rover

Thanks for your help

David

[unstable load]

From the other thread you linked....

You can work around it by removing the distributor and turning it one tooth on the camshaft, but it's all a bit fiddly!

Alternatively, can't you build the bits across to your current distributor and make that work for you?

[DaveEFI]

The DLM is a very good dizzy performance wise. But if it does have a fault, it's the amp which can fail. Usually due to heat. So it is best to have the amp located at the front in the maximum air flow. Hence the different layout of varieties. If a R-R unit doesn't fit, the SD1 type is the alternative. But not sure of advance curves - I'd guess there will be variations too.

When I still had a DLM dizzy, I carried a spare amp. Late models had the amp remote from the dizzy - not sure if kits are available to do this. But early failure may only have applied to cars with AC and or the later 88C thermostat.

[ChrisJC]

Forgetting the timing for a minute, if you can physically find a rotational position in which it will fit, then the chances are you can get it working. You might have to work out which plug lead goes where from first principles rather than what the manual says though.

Chris.

[sidecar]

Forgetting the timing for a minute, if you can physically find a rotational position in which it will fit, then the chances are you can get it working. You might have to work out which plug lead goes where from first principles rather than what the manual says though.

Chris.

I agree, for what its worth!

[Eliot]

You can have it in any position you like - as long as the leads are plugged into the relevant position.

First you need to find TDC for cylinder 1. Set the engine at TDC and remove the cap, if the rotor arm isn't pointing to the #1 post (it will be dead opposite), rotate the engine round until TDC comes round again, check the alignment to the post that leads to cylinder 1 (front right cyl standing looking at the engine and also the shortest lead)

Now scribe the position of the dizzy against the engine case - this is you arse covering reference point in case you need to revert.

Remove all the plug leads.

Next just rotate the dizzy one post at a time until it's where you want it. Whichever post you are now pointing at is your new #1 position - lightly clamp the dizzy.

refit the leads starting with cylinder 1 in a clockwise manner in the firing order.

start up and use a timing light to fine tune the advance.

I fiited a complete powerspark dizzy, leads and coil to my mates v8 110 the other week, seemed to be a quality product:
http://www.simonbbc.com/bundle-deals/v8 ... or-bundles

[southernd]

Thank you so much for the help, I didn't see the comment on moving it around, I did kind of try to do that but the leads reached their limit.

I'm on the quest to get the bhp up, it's still pretty lame for such a modified 3.5 in a 950kg car, just bought a timing strobe and I'll get a wide band monitor this week I do love the V8 for all it's trouble, what car in 2016 can you get into the mechanicals so easily and still sounds better than nearly every other car

[ChrisJC]

Thank you so much for the help, I didn't see the comment on moving it around, I did kind of try to do that but the leads reached their limit.

Move the leads around the cap, and rotate the distributor shaft by the same amount.

Chris.