3.9 EFI: No power

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 8:54 am

meanwhile, a doubt:

there is a MIL lamp in the dashboard?

(RRC MY1990)

why is it not turned on in the car? and why is it on in rover gauge?

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:37 pm

Hi,
today I have changed the TPS on my Range.

On rover gauge, MIL is off and i have no errors

But the problem of power is still here

what i have to do?

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:53 pm

Keep looking. Clearly you have more than one fault!

Chris.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:58 pm

Ok

just to do it, i will check again the ignition timing

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 1:35 pm

Hi,
I have a G4 halogen lamp like this:

(12V 10W)

is it ok to build a noid lamp?

thank you

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 2:27 pm

I'd say not. It will take a lot of current to drive it, and may damage the injector driver. A small low current LED would be better. Also, a filament bulb won't show something flashing at speed like an injector

For the normal small LED you'll need a series 1000 ohm resistor. It will then draw about 0.01amp at 12v rather than the near 1 amp of your 10 watt bulb.

LEDs are polarity sensitive so need to be connected the correct way round.
Cathode is negative.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 5:22 pm

Ok, i will use a led

meanwhile, Meanwhile, the main relay can cause problems if it is damaged or not working properly?

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Apr 02, 2014 10:46 pm

I'm not that familiar with your injection, but on some Lucas injection the main relay is an oddball - it is a 5 pin with two outputs. Fit the common SPDT type and you have a problem. So I'd certainly make sure it is the correct one.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:01 am

since i have the range i never touched this relè. It can be the original or not, that's why i have asked for problem on it

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Thu Apr 03, 2014 8:51 am

Relay contacts can be dirty (as can the terminals) - check the voltage drop across them with it in circuit.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:30 pm

Hi everyone,
today I have made others test

First of all, my hand-made noid lamp (with halogen) doesn't work properly...or i have no injectors that works

For second, on Rover Gauge the MIL now is ON, but i have no errors

relays looks good

next step is use a led to build another noid lamp, then i will check again fuel pressure regulator...other ideas?

thank you lot

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:28 am

I just did a little experiment to see if the fuel pressure regulator was good:

I disconnected the fuel line after the filter and I did run the pump with rover gauge to see how the fuel flows.

Next, i have disconnected the fuel line after the fuel pressure regulator and i did run the pump again and I noticed that the flow is slower.

So i think the FPR is ok...right?

anyway, the MIL is always on but i still have no errors

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:53 am

My advice is not to rely on computer diagnostics on a system this old and use traditional testing methods.

Which for things like the fuel pressure involves checking it with a pressure gauge. Pretty well everything else can be checked with a decent DVM. One with a dwell reading will also show injector opening duration.

lollorock · Post by **lollorock** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 11:07 am

I agree, but if you remember the first post ... I've checked or replaced everything I could. And the car continues to go wrong. If the noid test will say that the wiring is, I have also finished all the tests that you have suggested to me

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Sun Apr 13, 2014 1:33 pm

What do you expect the 'noid test' to show you?