P6 Weber 500 carb linkage

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:34 pm

My P6 has a weber 500 carb, but the linkage was designed and installed by a chap called Heath Robinson and is quite frankly a mess.

I have seen a few of these around and was wondering if anyone could tell me where to get one, preferably without paying RPI £125.00

Any ideas?

I might make my own yet, but it won't look as nice as this one

Richard

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:16 am

Hi
Is it this sort of thing you are after?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JOES-Racing-Produ ... Id=1556816
or this
http://www.jegs.com/i/JOES-Racing-Produ ... Id=1556816
or maybe
http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 1/10002/-1
a hunt around Ebay would probably find a selection of similar stuff.
For basic bell cranks and bits like that this lot might be helpfull but not cheep as it is really specialist stuff
http://fuelinjectionent.com/webstore/in ... Path=21_36
A hunt around Summit might be helpfull, but buy from someone else unless it is a big order!
This lot are cheaper and a nice bunch to deal with, just not sure if they will have what you want.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/
Best regards
Mike

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:40 am

It's generally easier to use a cable. Engineering a rod linkage to take into account engine movement isn't simple.

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 11:44 am

Cheers all

At the moment the rod linkage goes as far as the engine, then there is a cable from the kick down linkage on the original rod linkage which runs down the back of the engine and back up under the heater to the carb.

Bit messy - pic from when I bought the car

Found this one too - I have an idea that it is a kick down linkage from some random V8 powered car/4x4, but don't know which one?

I don't think there is a problem with engine movement, but am prepared to work on that if required. Thanks for the links Kiwicar, but none of them seem suitable

Regards

Richard

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 12:22 pm

Any rubber mounted engine is going to move a bit - and you don't want that movement translated into throttle movement.

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 2:33 pm

Hi Dave

Yes, I get that bit, but the rod linkage already goes to the engine, prior to transfer to the cable, so any movement translation would be there already.

The P6 was designed with a rod system which does not have a problem with movement translation so I am assuming (yes I know the saying

) that they have sorted this problem, and as I am just connecting to the end of it, it won't be a problem.

I am just looking to tidy it all up as this part of the engine bay annoys me

Richard

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 3:09 pm

A - sorry, missed out the P6 bit. Of course it already has a rod system - including that rubber bush in the bulkhead which is always shot.

Trying to remember - doesn't the gearbox control cable bit fit to the cylinder head or inlet manifold originally? I'm sort of wondering why that too is a 'bodge'.

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Wed Aug 07, 2013 3:41 pm

It looks like the original owner cut the bar off just in front of the kick down bracket, then welded the kick down onto the bar. The bar would just fall out the back at this point as it is no longer held by the carbs, so he wrapped a piece of heater hose around it and secured it with a jubilee clip.

Not sure why there is an extra piece welded onto the black bracket on the inlet mani? but then the cable, used for a throttle cable, was bodged onto the kick down.

If I can get the L shaped kit in the picture of other people's cars, I can dispense with the cable, cable bracket on the back of the carb, butchered bar and kick down, bracket on the heater where the knackered bush usually resides, and the black bracket on the inlet mani.

It would look a lot nicer and I would be less worried about the whole thing falling apart.

Richard

Richard P6 · Post by **Richard P6** » Fri Aug 16, 2013 8:38 am

I've made my own now. And the car is a lot more responsive, and a pleasure to drive. It was good anyway, but the improvement by just getting rid of the slack in the throttle linkage is quite remarkable.

I used a 20mm box section, strengthened with some 16mm tube to form the base. Then a 1/4 UNC bolt through the back to hold the pivot, and an L shaped lever that I cut out of a 6mm sheet of aluminium.

Perfect job

- OK it could look better, but I only have a hacksaw, file and a drill so not so shabby

Richard