Dizzy problems std dizzy help needed

Big woof · Post by **Big woof** » Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:21 pm

Hello Ramon it is some thing along those lines. I have decided that after looking at various alternative ignition systems. I have decided that they are just too expensive a option. So I am thinking off upgrading the coil to a msd mega blaster 2 coil and replace the ignition amp with a genuine item from land rover and see if that improves the spark to the plugs on the first crank off the engine when the car is hot. After it has been run for a while.

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:19 pm

Big woof wrote:see if that improves the spark to the plugs on the first crank off the engine when the car is hot. After it has been run for a while.

Hello M.

Those symptoms described seem to indicate that there is a heat induced problem caused as the considerable amount of latent heat in the engine soaks into the exterior parts inside the engine bay immediately after stopping and for a period thereafter.

I'm thinking that the heat soaking temperature under the bonnet is a lot higher than when the car is cruising along with loads of airflow through the bay.

So your choice of replacing coil and amplifier, has some merit if you are into experimenting.

However, just for example, if the amplifier had not been correctly assembled to its heat sink with just a very thin smear of thermal paste, then the amplifier may be operating outside it's temperature range and is croaking intermittently just when you want to get mobile, again.

Under such conditions, a new coil would make zero difference and a new amplifier might be OK but only if correctly assembled.

As I said just a logical example.

Therefore TESTING your ignition components using the methods suggested would have considerable merit, before randomly shelling out on new components, if you get my drift?

As far as a very hot amplifier is concerned it would be possible to set the amplifier test up to be performed immediately after the fault appears.

Then there are other heat vulnerable components to consider, - suppression condenser, dissy pickup coil, local wiring connectors, etc, all testable.

Just my immediate twopenny thoughts - Good Luck!

Big woof · Post by **Big woof** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 9:27 am

Hello r yes I would agree with you I have tested and tested untill I am blue in the face and I am thinking the same as you it's looking more like the ignition module or the coil.

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:36 am

Are you certain it is the correct coil? If not, it might be drawing too much current etc - which might account for the short lived amps.

Big woof · Post by **Big woof** » Wed Aug 14, 2013 10:45 am

It is ment to be the correct coil for the car dave mate or so the suppliers have told me. It is ment to be a Bosch coil that the part numbers go to.
I have been looking at the msd blaster 2 coil thinking that this might be okay and deliver higher voltages.
But the main problem that I have is the quality off parts these days is either made in china or Mexico and they don't seem to last right long. Even the genuine bits unless you can find the genuine old stock parts are stamped made in Uk but aren't. There boxed in the uk