Audi B5 420-R: The Build
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No more difficult than when working on a V6. Actually, the V6 30V is worse than the V8 32V. You can't remove the exhaust manifolds with the engine in situ. At the very minimum, you need to undo both engine mounts, and jack the engine up as high as you can.ChrisJC wrote:It looks a bloody tight fit - I don't envy you working on it!
Chris.
Even worse with the 2,7 Biturbo.
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Update 14th January 2013:
As with my previous Audi A4 Quattro B5, the original V6 front crossmember would not clear the V8 motor. It was completely the wrong shape, as shown here. Note the interference with V8 engine lower sections:

And replaced with a modified I4 crossmember, that fits perfectly, after a bit of fettling:

V6 and I4 front crossmembers. The top one is the V6, very different shape to the I4 item below:

As with my previous Audi A4 Quattro B5, the original V6 front crossmember would not clear the V8 motor. It was completely the wrong shape, as shown here. Note the interference with V8 engine lower sections:

And replaced with a modified I4 crossmember, that fits perfectly, after a bit of fettling:

V6 and I4 front crossmembers. The top one is the V6, very different shape to the I4 item below:

2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Update 14th January 2013 - continued:
Modified radiator and hood lock carrier. To clear the V8, the entire mid-section needed to be cut out. It's not a structural assembly, so not a big deal. All the central section was for was to mount the aircon electric fan, and act as a cowl for the mechanical engine-drive one. As I'm fitting a pair of electric fans on the front of the radiator, it's not needed.
Picture:

Picture showing the twin 12" electric fans temporarily mounted on the radiator:



Modified radiator and hood lock carrier. To clear the V8, the entire mid-section needed to be cut out. It's not a structural assembly, so not a big deal. All the central section was for was to mount the aircon electric fan, and act as a cowl for the mechanical engine-drive one. As I'm fitting a pair of electric fans on the front of the radiator, it's not needed.
Picture:

Picture showing the twin 12" electric fans temporarily mounted on the radiator:



2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Rewind to 07th January 2013:
A friend of mine had a '98 Audi A4 B5 Quattro 1,9 TDI to get rid of. The engine had been starved of oil, and was pretty sludged up. The low oil pressure warning lamp illuminated just before the engine expired with a gasping death rattle.
I took it off his hands, and it was delivered to me today. I was after an I4 front crossmember, as the V6 one would not clear the big V8 motor, so it was just in time. I've picked some choice bits off it, and will literally pillage her for any more juicy bits and pieces.
Pictures!




I took a quick look at the engine, after removing the rocker cover. For those that ignore oil change intervals, use the wrong oil, or remove their thermostats, causing the engine to run too cool (and causing condensation to turn the oil to deadly sludge) this is the end result. This oil was so contaminated, it looked like mud:

A friend of mine had a '98 Audi A4 B5 Quattro 1,9 TDI to get rid of. The engine had been starved of oil, and was pretty sludged up. The low oil pressure warning lamp illuminated just before the engine expired with a gasping death rattle.
I took it off his hands, and it was delivered to me today. I was after an I4 front crossmember, as the V6 one would not clear the big V8 motor, so it was just in time. I've picked some choice bits off it, and will literally pillage her for any more juicy bits and pieces.
Pictures!




I took a quick look at the engine, after removing the rocker cover. For those that ignore oil change intervals, use the wrong oil, or remove their thermostats, causing the engine to run too cool (and causing condensation to turn the oil to deadly sludge) this is the end result. This oil was so contaminated, it looked like mud:

2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
No worries, might have been interested if it was leather etc. Thanks!Nollywood wrote:It's just sport cloth, with the raised bolsters. S-Line didn't appear till 2003, in the B6.chodjinn wrote:what's the interior like in that diesel quattro mate? Is it leather/s-line ...
RIP MGB V8 .... served me well as a learning curve.
R32 Skyline V8 .... this one is gonna be a monster!
R32 Skyline V8 .... this one is gonna be a monster!
My car is up and running. What problems are you having with your gear shift? And what transmission are you using?Tanehau wrote:Is this v8 AHC swap going anywhere? i have same project in to a4 b5 and i have at the moment proplem with the gear shifter.
2000 Audi B5 420-R, Pelican Blue:Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
2000 Audi B5 420-R DTM, Santorin Blue: Work In Progress.
Hey Nollywood!
We have proplems with the electrics. I use stock audi s8 ahc ecu and a4 2.4 30v instrument and when i start the engine it starts and will run only 1 or 2 seconds and shotdown. There is the relay what gives power to the nozzles. if we take direct power to the nozzles it will starts and go running 1 or 2 seconds and if we use the realay it wont give the power to the nozzles. My friend try to solve how to shotdown the immobilizer put the obd port dosent give a possibility for that and the instrument dont give the key picture in the instrument.
What is wrong, if you can help us?
We have proplems with the electrics. I use stock audi s8 ahc ecu and a4 2.4 30v instrument and when i start the engine it starts and will run only 1 or 2 seconds and shotdown. There is the relay what gives power to the nozzles. if we take direct power to the nozzles it will starts and go running 1 or 2 seconds and if we use the realay it wont give the power to the nozzles. My friend try to solve how to shotdown the immobilizer put the obd port dosent give a possibility for that and the instrument dont give the key picture in the instrument.
What is wrong, if you can help us?
Audi A4 B5 4.2 V8 32v AHC 6-speed quattro