Hotwire on a 4.6 Thor?

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Automania
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Hotwire on a 4.6 Thor?

Post by Automania »

Hi guys tried google but I can't seem to find the answer for sure, is it easy/possible to fit Hotwire injection to a Thor engine using the Thor (bananas) manifold? Cheers mike


DaveEFI
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Post by DaveEFI »

Only guessing, but I'd say not. I'd also ask why you'd want to?
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Post by kiwicar »

:whs
surley it would be virtually the same cost to convert it to megasquirt than get all the bits for the hotwire and overhaul them? For starters wouldn't you need 2 AFMs and have them calibreated the same :? .
Best regards
Mike
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Automania
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Post by Automania »

I'm just throwing ideas about at the minute, the banana manifold apparently gives better torque than the earlier ones, was just wondering of it could be done, why would it need two afm?
Apparently the Aussies do this a bit to there motors so I've now found some threads on it
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Post by DaveEFI »

Automania wrote:I'm just throwing ideas about at the minute, the banana manifold apparently gives better torque than the earlier ones, was just wondering of it could be done, why would it need two afm?
Apparently the Aussies do this a bit to there motors so I've now found some threads on it
Interesting. I've got a totally complete banana set up from the block up - including all the injection parts - loom and ECU.

I was intending trying it on my SD1 3.5 which is an auto, so torque is probably of more benefit than absolute power. I'm running a MegaSquirt, so it would be an easy enough conversion.

But informed opinion on here said not to bother. :D
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Automania
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Post by Automania »

DaveEFI wrote:
Automania wrote:I'm just throwing ideas about at the minute, the banana manifold apparently gives better torque than the earlier ones, was just wondering of it could be done, why would it need two afm?
Apparently the Aussies do this a bit to there motors so I've now found some threads on it
Interesting. I've got a totally complete banana set up from the block up - including all the injection parts - loom and ECU.

I was intending trying it on my SD1 3.5 which is an auto, so torque is probably of more benefit than absolute power. I'm running a MegaSquirt, so it would be an easy enough conversion.

But informed opinion on here said not to bother. :D
Yeah apparently its due to the longer intake runners on the manifold, only what I've read mind you.
Last edited by Automania on Wed Aug 29, 2012 4:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
kiwicar
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Post by kiwicar »

Hi
I thought this set up had seperate plenum arangments for each side?? hence an AFM for each side??
Mike
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Post by POAH »

Thor only has one AFM
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Post by badger »

Been there, done this! Fuel rail is a straight fit, one small part of the casting at the rear (coil pack mount) has to be filed away for clearance. Thor only has one temp sensor port, use that for the efi and fabricate another sensor port in the heater offtake pipe as close to the inlet manifold as possible for the gauge sender. Front of Thor manifold can be drilled and tapped and the coolant hole opened out to take a standard top hose elbow and thermostat. Throttle position sender is the same in terms of operating range and output voltage so just splice in the correct plug for the hotwire harness.
Dave, this will work on a 3.5 as well, use the early 3.5 efi disco ecu/tune resistor.
Badger.
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Post by DaveEFI »

Badger, how would you describe the difference in performance - preferably on a 3.5?
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Post by badger »

No idea Dave, I did it on a 4.7 (bored 4.6!). Reckon there was a lot more grunt at low rpm's which was what I wanted as it was in a 4-speed auto 110 weighing 3.4 tons! It seemed to run out of steam at around 4400rpm but that could have been cam choice as much as anything I reckon.
I fancy trying a twin throttle body version on my TR8 if I can fit it under the bonnet, using the two main side plenums without the original front plenum, and fitting throttle bodies to the front of each, fed from a couple of decent sized cone filters in the nose cone forward of the radiators...
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Post by POAH »

badger wrote:No idea Dave, I did it on a 4.7 (bored 4.6!). Reckon there was a lot more grunt at low rpm's which was what I wanted as it was in a 4-speed auto 110 weighing 3.4 tons! It seemed to run out of steam at around 4400rpm but that could have been cam choice as much as anything I reckon.
I fancy trying a twin throttle body version on my TR8 if I can fit it under the bonnet, using the two main side plenums without the original front plenum, and fitting throttle bodies to the front of each, fed from a couple of decent sized cone filters in the nose cone forward of the radiators...
I could do with one for mine lol
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