you could change to injectors and MS to get more power - would have thought you would have more than 293hp with your set up.
I'd like to get more out of the 3.9 in my 110 but not got the cash sadly
Turbo or super less than a grand as alternative to NOS???
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The cam is very good for on road - and is ok for off road - perhaps a purist would want more lower down grunt but my 90 is light and it does fine, i like cross country / mild hilly off road as opposed to challenge type terrain, this cam would struggle in a winch event for example, is great for rolling hills and on road. I bought it from a freind Paul (V8 Tuner) as a TVR 500 spec cam. The bottom end has all been fully balanced as this in a problem with the original TVR setup. 293 was an estimate from john eals after reviewing my spec (quite a funny accurate one) I hoped for over 300, but dont truthfully know.
Spent so much on trial and error!
MS / Injection would not really make a huge amount of difference - am installing a AFR meter for carb fine tuning and although mid range would be imporved ultimately a well tuned carb is not 'that' far off. Are you looking for a bit more power or grunt?? What application ?
Spent so much on trial and error!
In my humble injection will make a big difference IF you use throttle bodies, it will make a much smaller difference if you use an intake manifold.
If anything is holding back the engine in its current form it will probably be the intake manifold, the Eddy 180 is a good manifold but it can only flow so much. I guess after that the heads will hold it back.
NOS gets round this by chemically supercharging the engine.
If anything is holding back the engine in its current form it will probably be the intake manifold, the Eddy 180 is a good manifold but it can only flow so much. I guess after that the heads will hold it back.
NOS gets round this by chemically supercharging the engine.
get in on a rolling road to set it up and you may see more and get an accurate reading of power.
DaviesDJ wrote:The cam is very good for on road - and is ok for off road - perhaps a purist would want more lower down grunt but my 90 is light and it does fine, i like cross country / mild hilly off road as opposed to challenge type terrain, this cam would struggle in a winch event for example, is great for rolling hills and on road. I bought it from a freind Paul (V8 Tuner) as a TVR 500 spec cam. The bottom end has all been fully balanced as this in a problem with the original TVR setup. 293 was an estimate from john eals after reviewing my spec (quite a funny accurate one) I hoped for over 300, but dont truthfully know.
Sidecar I'm sure you are right, i am just a tinkerer and learning really. I understand the high end restriction and the smaller plenum nature of the 180. But wanted to keep drivability, I suppose I planned the engine a bit badly, I've got a carb for higher end power, a mid range inlet manifold etc, why would throttle bodies give better power throughout the range?? Would have thought they were more aimed for high end power?? Like bike carbs, max flow and throttle surface area but low gas velocity at low rpm??? Also I hear you know
4 barrels, have you set an Eddie 600 up on a 5.0 rover lIke mine?? (afr gauge going in next week)
4 barrels, have you set an Eddie 600 up on a 5.0 rover lIke mine?? (afr gauge going in next week)
Spent so much on trial and error!
Hey there, I was not 'knocking' your manifold, I use the same one!DaviesDJ wrote:Sidecar I'm sure you are right, i am just a tinkerer and learning really. I understand the high end restriction and the smaller plenum nature of the 180. But wanted to keep drivability, I suppose I planned the engine a bit badly, I've got a carb for higher end power, a mid range inlet manifold etc, why would throttle bodies give better power throughout the range?? Would have thought they were more aimed for high end power?? Like bike carbs, max flow and throttle surface area but low gas velocity at low rpm??? Also I hear you know
4 barrels, have you set an Eddie 600 up on a 5.0 rover lIke mine?? (afr gauge going in next week)
They are a good road manifold, if you fit a 360 jobbie you will loose mid range and an engine that only produces power at high revs is no good as a road engine!
I have messed about with a few Eddy carbs, I am a bit loathed to give out jet and rod combos these days because it could well be wrong, some people in the past have thought that I can jet their carb 'over the web' which just ain't possible!
Anyway I have tried a 600 carb on my 4.6 (rather than the 500 it normally runs), it made about 20 ftlbs more torque in the mid range but the top end was the same. The problem that I had with it was a rich bog, almost stalling when braking hard, I messed about with float heights and other stuff but I never got rid of it so I went back to the 500 carb. I then made a 500 carb into a 600 by thinning down the primary boosters, they are mega thick on the 500 in order to restrict the carb, that did not work either. My 500 also had a slight bog when braking VERY hard, I fitted a 5 degree wedge plate under the carb and that improved it alot! Hard to believe I know but it worked! (Someone with a 600 carb on a SBC on the Cobra forum had the same problem, everyone slagged me off when I said fit a wedge plate, he fitted one and the problem was solved!) It nearly solved the 600 bog issue on my Cobra but another issue started to show up as soon as I was getting the cruise AFR about right, the problem was a lean stumble just as the transition circuits in the carb were coming into play, I tried some stuff to cure that including drilling holes in the butterfly plates but in the end I gave up!
Anyway both the 600 and the 500 converted to a 600 were running the following before I gave up with it.
95 primaries 65-37 rods 95 secondaries, pilots 2 turns out, silver rod springs. This is 51% leaner on cruise than the base setup and 63% leaner on the powerstep compared to the base setup of a 500 carb, not a 600 carb.
The ARF for my engine was 12.2:1 on tickover, cruise 13.5-14.5:1, powerstep was 12.5:1 and WOT was 11.8:1. As you can see there was room for improvement but I gave up due the transition issue.
As you are going to fit a Lambda probe try to go for the following AFR
Cruise 14.5-15:1 (I can not get any Eddy engine to work well when setup leaner than this on cruise, the throttle response gets very bad)
Acceleration (Just enough drop in vacuum to lift the rods (fit silver or purple springs), use a vac gauge along with teh AFR meter, go for 12-12.5:1
WOT go for 12.5-13:1 (Don't go leaner than 13:1 the power will fall like a stone, 12.8:1 being ideal)
Tickover, just go for what your engine will run best with, if you run a long duration cam it will end up being quite dirty at tickover, I run a Piper 285.
Last edited by sidecar on Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
No probs!DaviesDJ wrote:Thanks sidecar - legend - will begin in the next week or so - really kind of you to give such good advice!
If you PM an email address I'll send you an XL spreadsheet which can help you work out how one jet and rod combo compares to another. (The Eddy charts are crap, they don't include all the rods and even have errors in them! Muscle Manta on this forum can supply you with rods and jets.
I take it that you do know how these carbs work? If not have a read of the link below (the bit on carbs), I wrote it ages ago, I state in it them most RV8 lumps can run the same carb settings, I no longer think this but I can't be arsed changing the article! (The web is full of duff info anyway!)
http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... ing-system
