Hi Guys
Does anyone have any experience of a rover v8 with this cam fitted, how does it drive like in your vehicle, and does anyone have any cold tappet clearence that will help with fitting it to a cold engine.
Thank You
James
256 Mechanical Camshaft views and adjustment
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Hi
Usual caveats on this, I've not used this in a rover, however I have a 256 263 on an LSA of 112 degrees mechanical roller cam in an SBC of 6.3 litres, I was going to use it on a road car, weighing less than a ton I think it would have been just about managable, provided I didn't try and take it into London! I am now going to use that engine with that cam in a slingshot dragster. . . make of that what you will!
I would think it would make a good circute race cam on engines up to 4.3 litres on webers or individual port EFI on a 4.6 or 5 litre it would probably also work as a drag race cam or a hill climb jobbie. For road use it would need atleast 6.5 litres (as it is non roller and will be on a tighter LSA) and that is not possable on a rover engine, anyway the heads would be so miss-matched . . . . . .
To get it to work you will need good heads and lots of compression (12:1+) and a proper induction set up.
Best regards
Mike
Usual caveats on this, I've not used this in a rover, however I have a 256 263 on an LSA of 112 degrees mechanical roller cam in an SBC of 6.3 litres, I was going to use it on a road car, weighing less than a ton I think it would have been just about managable, provided I didn't try and take it into London! I am now going to use that engine with that cam in a slingshot dragster. . . make of that what you will!
I would think it would make a good circute race cam on engines up to 4.3 litres on webers or individual port EFI on a 4.6 or 5 litre it would probably also work as a drag race cam or a hill climb jobbie. For road use it would need atleast 6.5 litres (as it is non roller and will be on a tighter LSA) and that is not possable on a rover engine, anyway the heads would be so miss-matched . . . . . .
To get it to work you will need good heads and lots of compression (12:1+) and a proper induction set up.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Thanks Mike
Your engine sounds interesting,
The cam power band is stated as 4000-7400 in a 3500cc rover V8 I intend in running it in a 4500cc which may lower the curve a tad, the heads will be either JE UBV or TVR BV's, the induuction will be a twin plenum fed by (wo seperate feed pipes ingnition and fuel controlled by an omex 710 ecu.
Is there anyone out there running a 256 out there that can help with the tappet clearence when the engine is cold, just to get me up and running please
Thanks
James
Your engine sounds interesting,
The cam power band is stated as 4000-7400 in a 3500cc rover V8 I intend in running it in a 4500cc which may lower the curve a tad, the heads will be either JE UBV or TVR BV's, the induuction will be a twin plenum fed by (wo seperate feed pipes ingnition and fuel controlled by an omex 710 ecu.
Is there anyone out there running a 256 out there that can help with the tappet clearence when the engine is cold, just to get me up and running please
Thanks
James
Hi
Sorry missed off that bit, I am running 22 thou (cold) as a starting point (comp cams recommended starting point for the lobe) you can usually run a bit tighter than that safely, down to about 15 thou, I think some on here say 12 thou (hot set) personally I think 18 to 20 thou should be quite safe.
I think 4500cc on that cam will be a handfull on the road, a good track cam though.
Best regards
Mike
Sorry missed off that bit, I am running 22 thou (cold) as a starting point (comp cams recommended starting point for the lobe) you can usually run a bit tighter than that safely, down to about 15 thou, I think some on here say 12 thou (hot set) personally I think 18 to 20 thou should be quite safe.
I think 4500cc on that cam will be a handfull on the road, a good track cam though.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
Hi James
is this a race car? just if yes then yes. . . . If you hope to run it on the road then I would have a bit more weight in the flywheel.
Personally on a race engine I think you want all the rotating assembly as light as poss, even down to using a 7 1/4 inch multiplate clutch, the lot, a circute car is much nicer if it has a quick throttle response. A road engine is a different beast and you have to be able to drive it on light throttle and at lower revs, then you need a bit of help or you are forever working the clutch and ratling your teeth.
Best regards
Mike
is this a race car? just if yes then yes. . . . If you hope to run it on the road then I would have a bit more weight in the flywheel.
Personally on a race engine I think you want all the rotating assembly as light as poss, even down to using a 7 1/4 inch multiplate clutch, the lot, a circute car is much nicer if it has a quick throttle response. A road engine is a different beast and you have to be able to drive it on light throttle and at lower revs, then you need a bit of help or you are forever working the clutch and ratling your teeth.
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
