35DLM8 Dizzy - Exploded Diagram?

[bigdawgv8]

Hi Y'all,

Can anyone help with this.

I am going through everything on my newly built V8 Minor Pick-up ready for it's first drive and MOT

The engine hasn't been run for a few months so I whipped out the dizzy (35DLM8) and spun the oil pump up with the drill.

However, on putting the dizzy back I noticed that the cap would no longer fit over the rotor arm. The shaft that the rotor arm sits on had moved so far up that the cap was hitting it!
There was also a load of rust in the end of the shaft under the rotor arm.

My question is should there be a screw in the top end of the dizzy shaft under the rotor arm? What normally holds the shaft in place and stops it coming up through the cap?
I'm hoping someone has an exploded diagram or something that I can follow to take it apart?

Thanks for reading and thanks for any advice.

Cheers

Martin

[sidecar]

If the dizzy is an original Lucas one then there should be a small plastic circular clip that sits inside the part of the shaft where the rotor arm fits.

Ebay sell 'fake' Lucas dizzies, these tend to have a screw in the end.

If the screw or the clip is missing then when you pull the rotor arm off the shaft the whole shaft moves and the advance retard mechanism semi-falls to pieces. (The springs could also end up getting stretched).

I have pulled quite a few dizzies apart, I tend to use a couple of washers and lock wire (Used with proper lock wire pliers) in order to replace the plastic clip.

I wrote the gumph in the link below ages ago, the pictures may help you but they probably won't show you enough detail to totally rebuild the bob-weight mechanism....

http://how-to-build-a-pilgrim-sumo.wiki ... by-members

There is a picture about 2/3 of the article title "Lucas dizzies"

[softdash3.9]

Have a look here

http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... highlight=

[bigdawgv8]

Thanks to both!

I will have a closer look today.

BTW - Softdash where did you get the clip from?
Might have some at work but in case not.........

Another question, should the 'chopper' on the shaft touch the pickup 'eye' or just miss it?

Thanks again.

Martin

[sidecar]

Thanks to both!

I will have a closer look today.

BTW - Softdash where did you get the clip from?
Might have some at work but in case not.........

Another question, should the 'chopper' on the shaft touch the pickup 'eye' or just miss it?

Thanks again.

Martin

It should just miss it, there is a specified air gap in the manual somewhere but 15 thou would be fine. (Really as long as the pickup does sense the passing of one of the reluctance wheel spikes then it will fine). The point at which the system fires will vary slightly with different air gaps but then you time the dizzy up by twisting it so it does not matter.

[bigdawgv8]

Hmmmmmmm! Thanks Sidecar.

Looks like Billy Bodger has been in there.
1) plastic cover broken
2) chopper touching pick-up eye.

What else will I find............

Anyone know or recommend somewhere to get spares for this? I may be needing advance springs etc...........ho-hum!

Thanks again.

Martin

[DaveEFI]

The reluctor air gap is given as 'not less than 0.006" or 0.15mm' in my SD1 BL manual. It also says to set it with a plastic feeler gauge.

[bobtail84]

Hmmmmmmm! Thanks Sidecar.

Looks like Billy Bodger has been in there.
1) plastic cover broken
2) chopper touching pick-up eye.

What else will I find............

Anyone know or recommend somewhere to get spares for this? I may be needing advance springs etc...........ho-hum!

Thanks again.

Martin

Martin I've got some spare dissys that I can take bits off so let me know what you need and will see what I have.

Jeff

[sidecar]

what carb are you running on your Moggy?

The reason that I ask is that you may wish or even need to fiddle about with the setup of your dizzy in order to suit the rest of your engine.
You my be better off with dizzy springs from a kit that you can get from Real Steel.


The link that I posted up explains all my thoughts and findings on the subject!

[bigdawgv8]

The jobs a gooden........so far.

The dizzy came apart easily and nothing appeared to be broken.
The springs had come adrift so once the casing was cleaned out and the bob weights cleaned and lubed everything was put back together.
I adjusted the 'eye' for a suitable air gap and used a couple of modellers 'E' clips to retain the top shaft.

I put the dizzy back in and fired the engine up BUT another question for you knowledgable folk.

I'm using an Edelbrock carb and manifold with the kit supplied front hose stub.
Problem is you can't get much turn on the dizzy due to the proximity of the top hose/water pump casing-to-vacuum housing.
How do you properly time this up with no room to manoevre?

Thanks

Martin

[sidecar]

The jobs a gooden........so far.

The dizzy came apart easily and nothing appeared to be broken.
The springs had come adrift so once the casing was cleaned out and the bob weights cleaned and lubed everything was put back together.
I adjusted the 'eye' for a suitable air gap and used a couple of modellers 'E' clips to retain the top shaft.

I put the dizzy back in and fired the engine up BUT another question for you knowledgable folk.

I'm using an Edelbrock carb and manifold with the kit supplied front hose stub.
Problem is you can't get much turn on the dizzy due to the proximity of the top hose/water pump casing-to-vacuum housing.
How do you properly time this up with no room to manoevre?

Thanks

Martin

You can move the dizzy round and re-time it so the vac canister clears the pipe work. You can move all the HT leads round on the dizzy cap if required.

Having said that if you want to run any sort of decent mechanical advance curve along with a good initial advance and full advance figures then you can not use the vac advance system anyway, the Eddy carb does not suit the Lucas vac canister unless you run a really low inital advance. (Which then messes up the total advance)