11 second mk6 escort

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu May 24, 2012 9:47 am

Hi
There is also a suspension issue here aswell
I think a quick glance at that photo as they leave the line tells quite a tale, Jays car does not squat, it just goes forward, the front unloads but the back does not move, if anything it lifts slightly, this is just about perfect for getting away quickly. Dels car spends too much efffort compressing the rear suspension, if he moved the locating points of the front of the lower wishbone up about an inch, maybe inch and a half then alot of that squat would go and he would leave the line quicker.
Derek, have a look here http://www.lencoracing.com/CS3MasterPage.html

and dream of full power shifts with a clutch, you could go for 4 cases and a reverser and up the final drive ratio in yours, and think of all those loverly leavers to play with!

Best regards
Mike

dbv8 · Post by **dbv8** » Thu May 24, 2012 10:30 am

kiwicar wrote: Dels car spends too much efffort compressing the rear suspension, if he moved the locating points of the front of the lower wishbone up about an inch, maybe inch and a half then alot of that squat would go and he would leave the line quicker.
Mike

Hi Mike, this is the sort of information i have been looking for.
Doesnt sound like a simple fix. I could do with some further explanation really. I always knew the IRS was the Achilles heal for drag racing. I dont want to lose the handling characteristics of the car for the road and track so maybe i could make the locating points and wishbones adjustable smehow

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu May 24, 2012 10:55 am

Hi Denis
there is actually no reason for an indipendent rear end not good for drag racing, it is a case of getting it all set up right and accepting slight compromises.
I would get a copy of this book http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chassis-Engineering-HP1055-Herb-Adams/dp/1557880557/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337856431&sr=8-1
and have a good read! it explains how to get anti squat (and anti dive) working on an indipendent set up.
I suspect that all you need to do on your chassis is to replace the front lower mounting brackets on your chassis with a longer version with 2 or 3 extra holes in them. The Mclaren chassis I have is set up for anti squat at the rear, it is not a big change to make. You may need to change the front lower wishbone end for a rose joint, just the one it shouldn't make the ride harsh just doing the one. The only down side is that doing this will be that under very hard braking the rear wheels will lock slightly earlier (unless you put in a bit of anti dive at the front!)
You might also benifit, if you have adjustable dampers at the rear, from winding out nearly all the rebound damping and wind in all hte compression damping (when you are at the track!)
Best regards
Mike

dbv8 · Post by **dbv8** » Thu May 24, 2012 11:04 am

Derek btw not Denis

I will get the book and some glasses (much needed) and have a good read.

I have 3 way adjustable Nitrons on the rear of the TVR. I only gave them a couple of clicks more on the bump and took a few out of the rebound.
Next time at track i will adjust them much more.
Would stiffer springs on the rear also help?

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu May 24, 2012 12:21 pm

OOps very sorry Derek, I was doing OK with Del aswell, not sure what happened, won't happen again (hopefully).
Best regards
Mike

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu May 24, 2012 8:19 pm

Fancy getting his name wrong ?? Shame on you Mike

As we discussed in a previous mail Del, sorry Derek

Adjust those dampers to resist bump on the rear and rebound on the front.
This will help weight transfer quicker off the line. But it will put more load on the tyres so they need to be really sticky from a proper burnout. (line lock ????) Another job eh

If you have enough adjustment to make it launch better and the tyres dont hang on you will be drifting through 1st and 2nd gears. Your rear tyres are a bit hard on the side wall so will be unforgiving if they let go off the line.

I dont know how much adjustment you have at the mo but for a start I would say take 50% out of the bump adjustment you have left on the back and about 75% of the rebound adjustment you have left up front.

Your car is less likely to suffer hard body roll like mine does off the line so the irs is ok. You just need to tweak stuff around it to improve things while still keeping it good for road and circuit as you can mark your adjustment points.

If you are happy that the clutch and drive shafts are up to the job you should be able to nail that 10 without making serious mods.

You only need 0.3 off your present PB to make a 10.95 ???

You can do this in the 60 foot......

And get that bloody nitrous controller fitted so you dont have to faff with the button. Thats losing you valuable time on the 1/4 as well...

Regards
Pel (Perry)

dbv8 · Post by **dbv8** » Fri May 25, 2012 7:41 am

I dont mind being called Del, most people South of Watford call me that for some strange reason

I get called allsorts of things at home as you can imagine, but Denis is a new one

Ive ordered that book Mike and have a few ideas and settings to try at York a week on Sunday. We all know its the best track at my level so if i am going to hit a ten it will be there

PS.... that 11.3 at the pod had some junk in the boot and Alex in the passenger seat. That extra weight has to be worth a tenth at least so lets say i matched my PB

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Fri May 25, 2012 1:42 pm

dbv8 wrote:I dont mind being called Del, most people South of Watford call me that for some strange reason
I get called allsorts of things at home as you can imagine, but Denis is a new one

Ive ordered that book Mike and have a few ideas and settings to try at York a week on Sunday. We all know its the best track at my level so if i am going to hit a ten it will be there

PS.... that 11.3 at the pod had some junk in the boot and Alex in the passenger seat. That extra weight has to be worth a tenth at least so lets say i matched my PB

Without a doubt Den!
He must weigh 10 stone I reckon.

You should try telling folk your name is Perry over the phone. I even say "P for Papa Perry" and most still dont catch on.
I've had Barry, Larry, Terry, Jerry and my fave.. Percy

You on track this weekend ?

Pel

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Fri May 25, 2012 4:57 pm

Can I suggest putting the junk on the side of the track and Alex in the boot

that will help the rear tires hook up.
The book is a good read, I'm just surprised you haven't ordered the Lenco though they really do look very cool with 1 leaver for each gear

.
best regards
Mike

frankenscort · Post by **frankenscort** » Sun May 27, 2012 5:37 pm

hey guys, i mite get a better mph soon, dads new slicks dont fit in his arches so he is having mine and im gettin his spanky new ones. mine are 28" tall his are 29.5" tall, its easier for me to cut the metal on my arch away.

only time will tell though.

dbv8 · Post by **dbv8** » Mon May 28, 2012 11:07 am

According to my simple maths at 112 mph on 28" tyres and a 4.11 diff you are at about 5500 rpm.

On 29.5" tyres at the same engine speed you would be at 117.

JJMclure · Post by **JJMclure** » Mon May 28, 2012 11:48 am

dbv8 wrote:Pics nearer the start tell some of the story.....

and it gets further apart until the 1/8 as Pel says, then i start catching.

Is that your lunchbox on the dash?!?!
only joking looks a good launch or is that lunch? Sorry!

frankenscort · Post by **frankenscort** » Mon May 28, 2012 4:53 pm

dbv8 you are bang on there mate, i am at 5500rpm acros the line.

jj, dont be mean, that tells me wen it is going to blow up, but hasnt told me yet.

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Tue May 29, 2012 8:52 pm

dbv8 wrote:According to my simple maths at 112 mph on 28" tyres and a 4.11 diff you are at about 5500 rpm.

On 29.5" tyres at the same engine speed you would be at 117.

Its actually a 3.9:1 diff. So pretty close to the numbers eh assuming a bit of slip from the £50 torque converter ?