3.5 RV8 running in??
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3.5 RV8 running in??
Hi guys, just a quick one to see how you would recomend running in a fresh rebuild??
Over on driftworks they recon:
Get the engine started but don't let it idle... run it at 1500rpm, get it to running temp, then turn it off and check for leaks..... if all is OK, take it out drive it normaly with some 75% throttle runs through the gears with some over run in there aswel. Do this for 100 miles or so, change the oil and filter, then you can go for it!!
Does this sound right, as it sounds like a way to get a very short life expectancy from your engine!!
Tips and pointers please guys, as I always thought it was 600 miles of gentle driving, slowly building throttle and loads up to 1000 miles, oil and filter change, then treat it normaly?
Cheers
Jono
Over on driftworks they recon:
Get the engine started but don't let it idle... run it at 1500rpm, get it to running temp, then turn it off and check for leaks..... if all is OK, take it out drive it normaly with some 75% throttle runs through the gears with some over run in there aswel. Do this for 100 miles or so, change the oil and filter, then you can go for it!!
Does this sound right, as it sounds like a way to get a very short life expectancy from your engine!!
Tips and pointers please guys, as I always thought it was 600 miles of gentle driving, slowly building throttle and loads up to 1000 miles, oil and filter change, then treat it normaly?
Cheers
Jono
Hi
this is a race engine ??
If yes get it started, run it up to 2000 to 2500 revs an do not let it stay at any one revs for more than 20 seconds stop it after about 2 minutes and check it for leaks, if it is OK then start it again and run it for for 15 to 20 minutes to bed in the cam. I would start it on a proper running in oil for a flat tappet cam. spay water from a hose to cool the radiator if needed. Once that is done then drive it gently for about 20 minutes, 3/4 pace for 20 more then dump the oil change the filter and your done.
best regards
Mike
this is a race engine ??
If yes get it started, run it up to 2000 to 2500 revs an do not let it stay at any one revs for more than 20 seconds stop it after about 2 minutes and check it for leaks, if it is OK then start it again and run it for for 15 to 20 minutes to bed in the cam. I would start it on a proper running in oil for a flat tappet cam. spay water from a hose to cool the radiator if needed. Once that is done then drive it gently for about 20 minutes, 3/4 pace for 20 more then dump the oil change the filter and your done.
best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
- NorthernBloke
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The site does seem bust which is a shame because it had some good info on it. I ran my engine in using the gumph from their website.
It was basically something like the below (from memory)
1. Get the cam run in.
2. Take the car out and load up the rings 10 times by accelerating in a high gear and an open throttle. (Back off between load-ups)
3.Do 50-100 miles with varying revs, don't load a steady state revs for very long at all. Change the oil.
5. over the next 300 miles use all the revs now and again but don't hold the engine at very high revs for too long.
6 Job done
It was basically something like the below (from memory)
1. Get the cam run in.
2. Take the car out and load up the rings 10 times by accelerating in a high gear and an open throttle. (Back off between load-ups)
3.Do 50-100 miles with varying revs, don't load a steady state revs for very long at all. Change the oil.
5. over the next 300 miles use all the revs now and again but don't hold the engine at very high revs for too long.
6 Job done
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Fab, so it sounds like I will make the drift day on the 1st 
The cam has been reused so that shouldn't need any run in period... but I'm not holding my breath on it lasting too long due to the engine having fairly high mileage before the rebuild
if I get a season out of it I think I'll be lucky! but hay ho, it will do for now and get changed for something a little heavyer for more go when the time comes 
Cheers guys,
Jono

The cam has been reused so that shouldn't need any run in period... but I'm not holding my breath on it lasting too long due to the engine having fairly high mileage before the rebuild


Cheers guys,
Jono
" it will do for now and get changed for something a little heavyer for more go when the time comes "
how about one of these, only a little bit heavier!
http://www.enginefactory.com/632850hp.htm
Best regards
Mike
how about one of these, only a little bit heavier!


http://www.enginefactory.com/632850hp.htm
Best regards
Mike
poppet valves rule!
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I'd rather it lasted to be honest as I had a guts full of unreliable engines! LOL
We tend to do about 50 mile a day on average, but if there are only 10 cars we can run up 100 miles of skids, so thinking that I could get away with 2 services a year as the events are monthly.
The cam didn't seem too bad when I pulled it out, and all the rockers bolted down on the std shims.... but we shall see!
Just as a heads up, what are the tell tale signs/simptoms of cam ware.... how do you tell if the cam is nakerd when it's in the block?
Cheers
Jono
We tend to do about 50 mile a day on average, but if there are only 10 cars we can run up 100 miles of skids, so thinking that I could get away with 2 services a year as the events are monthly.
The cam didn't seem too bad when I pulled it out, and all the rockers bolted down on the std shims.... but we shall see!
Just as a heads up, what are the tell tale signs/simptoms of cam ware.... how do you tell if the cam is nakerd when it's in the block?
Cheers
Jono
Jono FD3 wrote:Fab, so it sounds like I will make the drift day on the 1st
The cam has been reused so that shouldn't need any run in period... but I'm not holding my breath on it lasting too long due to the engine having fairly high mileage before the rebuildif I get a season out of it I think I'll be lucky! but hay ho, it will do for now and get changed for something a little heavyer for more go when the time comes
Cheers guys,
Jono
If its an old cam are you happy it isnt too worn?? Or at least evenly worn??
For the cost of a stock cam and lifters it might make a big difference!!
As for running in. I just do the cam bedding prodecure even if I have re used my old cam and lifters. Then I change the oil and go drag racing.
My tear downs have always been for head gasket issues. But once a year I fit new rings and shells just in case.
If you are going to drift the car and thrash the engine then just make sure you change the oil quite often. For the cost of a gallon of oil you could do an oil change after each drift day. And change the filter about every 3 oil changes.
Sounds like it just a cheap race day lump for the time being so you wont
be that bothered if it breaks ???
Perry
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVscbPHgue0&list=UUqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg3avnsNKrc&index=2&list=FLqIlXfSAoiZ--GyG4tfRrjw