Range Rover 4.6 into Rover P6 3500

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 6:59 am

OK, the distributorless timing covers are much shorter than the distributor timing covers. So I'm going to disagree with Ron here and state that you will be OK with the P38 timing cover.

5.5 inches from front of block to front of water pump.

I know that's a Range Rover timing cover, but you can see how short the P38 covers are.

I also think the angled oil filter might fit your application OK:

Chris.

RoverP6B · Post by **RoverP6B** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 7:34 am

Hi Chris,

Now that is short! I measured my SD1 timing cover to the front of the pulley and it came in at 16cm. Now 5.5" is 14cm, so 2cm less. Hmmm, but I wonder now whether or not there will still be sufficient clearance with the angled oil filter to clear the cross member...

Another question, will the P6 sump which must be used bolt up to the P38 timing cover without problems?

Ron.

DEVONMAN · Post by **DEVONMAN** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:31 am

RoverP6B wrote:Hi Chris,

Now that is short! I measured my SD1 timing cover to the front of the pulley and it came in at 16cm. Now 5.5" is 14cm, so 2cm less. Hmmm, but I wonder now whether or not there will still be sufficient clearance with the angled oil filter to clear the cross member...

Another question, will the P6 sump which must be used bolt up to the P38 timing cover without problems?

Ron.

The p6 sump will NOT bolt up to the P38 cover. The cover has an extra bolt fixing to the sump and you would need to use the P38 oil pick up pipe also.

However, the "interim" cover does bolt up but is about 20mm fatter than the non dizzy p38 cover, but, it would still be skinnyier than the SD1 cover and pump.

Another aspect to consider is that the serp belt needs a tensioner or idler wheel to get the water pump to run anti clockwise. Is there space for this?

Denis

RoverP6B · Post by **RoverP6B** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:40 am

DEVONMAN wrote,...

The p6 sump will NOT bolt up to the P38 cover. The cover has an extra bolt fixing to the sump and you would need to use the P38 oil pick up pipe also.

However, the "interim" cover does bolt up but is about 20mm fatter than the non dizzy p38 cover, but, it would still be skinnyier than the SD1 cover and pump.

Well that presents a problem in using the P38 cover then.

The interim covers though have the problem of a water pump with a much longer nose.

As far as the tensioner goes, as you can see from my engine pics, there is not a lot of room there.

Ron.

DEVONMAN · Post by **DEVONMAN** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 12:33 pm

I hope the following helps to clarify the front cover debate.

Up to recently I had an SD1 cover and P5/P6 water pump (British Fixed fan type) fitted to my 5.0 Hot Rod. This put the nose of the pump 15mm from the rad. (No mechanical fan just an electric one in front of the rad)
I have now swopped it for an "interim" type dizzy cover with counter clockwise water pump, ( Same pump as the P38) and the threads for the viscous fan are now 18mm from the radiator.
So the overall thickness of the covers and pumps are is very similar.
The viscous threads could be removed to give a further 10mm space if you are running electric fans

-The oil filter is now at the same angle but is 5mm lower.
-The serp belt is further forward than the v belt was but still not forward of the waterpump nose.
-The alternator had to be spaced forward to match the belt position.
-The cover bolts up to the P6 sump ok and there is no need to change the oil pick up.
-I did have to fabricate an idler /tensioner to get the waterpump to revolve counterclockwise. This is bolted to the front of the nearside cylinder head.
-I Have plugged the dizzy hole as I use megajolt. Plan is to fabricate an oil filler spout to fit into the dizzy hole

All works great with much improved oil pressure.

Denis