Low oil pressure on rebuilt engine
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Low oil pressure on rebuilt engine
Started to run the cam in on my 3.9 v8 rebuild
When it's up to temp, running 2000 rpm, oil pressure reads around 25psi, we let it idle and pressure drops to virtualy nothing, but the oil light didn't come on.
No horrible noise from the engine, but I should have more oil pressure, surely
Where to start looking ?
When it's up to temp, running 2000 rpm, oil pressure reads around 25psi, we let it idle and pressure drops to virtualy nothing, but the oil light didn't come on.
No horrible noise from the engine, but I should have more oil pressure, surely
Where to start looking ?
Check that the gauge is accurate and then let it hot idle with the rocker covers off. You may want to place some rags to catch oil splashes.
At idle the rocker gear should just be slowly seeping oil out and not filling the recesses in the heads. If its gushing at idle then the rocker gear is badly worn.
Worn rocker gear is often the cause of low oil pressure.
At idle the rocker gear should just be slowly seeping oil out and not filling the recesses in the heads. If its gushing at idle then the rocker gear is badly worn.
Worn rocker gear is often the cause of low oil pressure.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
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If the above advice doesn't cure the problem then as you haven't checked the pump, strip it and check the gears for wear and the base plate for scoring.
New gears are readily available from Real Steel or others and you can have the base plate resurfaced.
Don't be tempted to use high pressure kits as this puts a lot of stress and wear on the distributor gear which is driven of the cam.
Kevin.
New gears are readily available from Real Steel or others and you can have the base plate resurfaced.
Don't be tempted to use high pressure kits as this puts a lot of stress and wear on the distributor gear which is driven of the cam.
Kevin.
CastleMGBV8 wrote:If the above advice doesn't cure the problem then as you haven't checked the pump, strip it and check the gears for wear and the base plate for scoring.
New gears are readily available from Real Steel or others and you can have the base plate resurfaced.
Don't be tempted to use high pressure kits as this puts a lot of stress and wear on the distributor gear which is driven of the cam.
Kevin.
I agree with Kev on the high pressure oil pump kit. My car is track only so it only runs 1/4 miles. The HP pump kit on mine cost me 3 dissy cogs in one year ??
Not to mention the crappy 1/4 mile times as it knocked my ign timing out so far that it wouldnt even idle.
Maybe the HP pump kit would be ok with thinner oils. I use 20/50.
Perry Stephenson
MGB GT + Rover V8
9.62 @ 137.37mph
Now looking for 8 seconds with a SBC engine
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- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
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Just been looking on the internet to order new oil pump gears, came across a problem.
I'm running my old P6 front chest and remote filter from my old 3.5 engine, now I find there are different length gears, and ends(dizzy drive)
The gear dizzy drive I have is male, fits straight into my new 3.9 dizzy, happy days I thought, now I've found that I may need shorter female dizzy drive gear for the P6 chest.
If the previous engine ran these longer gears in a P6 chest would that account for the base plate scoring ? There seems to be around a 4 mm differance fron what I have read today.
Would it be a good idea to run shorter gears ? Then I would need to change the drive on the dizzy, is ths straight forward to do ?
I'm running my old P6 front chest and remote filter from my old 3.5 engine, now I find there are different length gears, and ends(dizzy drive)
The gear dizzy drive I have is male, fits straight into my new 3.9 dizzy, happy days I thought, now I've found that I may need shorter female dizzy drive gear for the P6 chest.
If the previous engine ran these longer gears in a P6 chest would that account for the base plate scoring ? There seems to be around a 4 mm differance fron what I have read today.
Would it be a good idea to run shorter gears ? Then I would need to change the drive on the dizzy, is ths straight forward to do ?
If your cover has not been modified, you can recognise the SD1 type chest by the rubber oil seal at the crank. The earlier chests had a felt/rope oil seal. Also earlier covers had a hole for the mechanical fuel pump.sowat wrote:May have confused myself here
May have a SD1 chest and P6 water pump, chest stamped ERC 0036
In which case new SD1 gears should be o.k ?
Denis
oil pressure
Hi did you solve the problem because i have same trouble