Hi Gentlemen,
I am going to be assembling my new 4.6 soon and was wondering if any of you guys use any of the specialist assembly lubes available?
Of course i will be using a good camlube for that particular area but was wondering for the rest of the engine.At work we just use regular engine oil,but seeing as most of our customers car are only in for a couple of days,BMW drivers are very inpatient people!!,they dont sit around to long.Where as mine will probally be a month or two (or six!!) and conserned about things 'drying'.
Any thoughts on this,also running in oil?
Cheers Gents
John.
Assembly Lube?
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I use ARP assembly Lube,
Regards Tony C (COOPS)

MS2 V3.57 Ecu mapable efi and wasted spark ignition.
Procharger D1SC supercharger and Cossie RS500 Intercooler @ 14psi of Boost. 416 RWHP, (boost leak)
Forged 4.8 V8 kitted out with the dogs Cajones of parts.
Sponsored by: www.v8performanceparts.co.uk, www.interpart.biz, www.caprisport.com & www.baileyperformance.co.uk

MS2 V3.57 Ecu mapable efi and wasted spark ignition.
Procharger D1SC supercharger and Cossie RS500 Intercooler @ 14psi of Boost. 416 RWHP, (boost leak)
Forged 4.8 V8 kitted out with the dogs Cajones of parts.

Sponsored by: www.v8performanceparts.co.uk, www.interpart.biz, www.caprisport.com & www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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I too use ARP assembly lube. I use the ARP thread sealer also. For the cam I use the Kent Cam lube, the red stuff. I also use mineral 20w50 cheap oil to lube everythng else.
Once I startup the engine and have it running for a short while and I mean short, like 20 minutes! I plan to change the oil and then put some good quality stuff in and then change after 500 miles.
Once I startup the engine and have it running for a short while and I mean short, like 20 minutes! I plan to change the oil and then put some good quality stuff in and then change after 500 miles.
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That's exactly the way I build my engines!
I set the timing as close as poss manually, shove the CO meter's probe up the exhaust as a safety measure so that I can see if it's running lean, then start up and give it it's first 20 minutes at 1800-2200rpm to "break in" (work-harden) the cam lobes at as low a ramp contact pressure as possible, then back to idle and check ignition timing & CO accurately, then dump the oil. Drain it through a filter paper, wash the residual oil through the filter paper with a little brake cleaner solvent and be astonished at what comes out that first oil change!!
I set the timing as close as poss manually, shove the CO meter's probe up the exhaust as a safety measure so that I can see if it's running lean, then start up and give it it's first 20 minutes at 1800-2200rpm to "break in" (work-harden) the cam lobes at as low a ramp contact pressure as possible, then back to idle and check ignition timing & CO accurately, then dump the oil. Drain it through a filter paper, wash the residual oil through the filter paper with a little brake cleaner solvent and be astonished at what comes out that first oil change!!

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I dont have a CO probe but I like the idea of filtering the oil to see what comes out, I suppose not matter how careful you are on a new engine I guess there will be some debris!

badger wrote:That's exactly the way I build my engines!
I set the timing as close as poss manually, shove the CO meter's probe up the exhaust as a safety measure so that I can see if it's running lean, then start up and give it it's first 20 minutes at 1800-2200rpm to "break in" (work-harden) the cam lobes at as low a ramp contact pressure as possible, then back to idle and check ignition timing & CO accurately, then dump the oil. Drain it through a filter paper, wash the residual oil through the filter paper with a little brake cleaner solvent and be astonished at what comes out that first oil change!!