My V8 Sierra project ..... maybe I will finish this one !

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Sat Sep 11, 2010 5:19 pm

I made a cross member for the gearbox today

Need to drop the whole lot out the bottom again to bash the transmission tunnel some more with a hammer.

Mark

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Sat Sep 18, 2010 6:39 pm

I fitted the anti roll bar and TCAs on today and checked for clearance.

Bit of luck

Mark

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Sat Oct 16, 2010 5:53 pm

Anti roll bar touches the bellhousing when the car is on its wheels

I will have to make up a couple of spacers to drop the ARB out of the way.

On the plus side the postman has been this week

Nice new shiney set of forged pistons

A new set of these forged steel rods

Shortened and reconditioned prop with new end to fit T56 gearbox.

Looking at the prop angles the gearbox needs to come up a bit at the rear which will mean a bit more fettling of the transmission tunnel at a later date.

Mark

stagcar · Post by **stagcar** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 4:57 pm

Hi Mark,

Looking good mate should kick ass when its done.

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:27 pm

Tiny update.
I tried to cut corners by ordering a set of Flowtech headers from Real Steel

They were very badly made and the ports were up to 1/4" out of alignment with the ports in my Edelbrock heads so I sent them back.

Ralph 85 had already made me these

I made up a tool to get 1 5/8" tube from round to square

Initial mock up with no welding

After I had a go at Tig welding the stubs in they bent like bananas

So I spent some time getting them straight in a vice and then skimmed them on a milling machine leaving an upstand around the ports to help get a good seal.

These bits are from the US
The little triangle bits help to smooth the flow into the collectors.

Because the clearance is so tight on the bolts I turned down some cap head screws on a lathe to help.

A box of goodies from OJZ engineering

I'm a real novice when it comes to Tig welding but Ill have to learn on the job.

New EFI intake showed up today as well

Mark

JJMclure · Post by **JJMclure** » Fri Dec 24, 2010 10:59 pm

Awesome! Those header stubs are looking really good!

Post by **demo2** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 2:49 am

That square to round tool does a neat job, how does it compress together ?

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 11:26 am

I used these serrated washers under my cap screws:

http://www.calebcomp.co.uk/products/hea ... shers.html

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:29 pm

demo2 wrote:That square to round tool does a neat job, how does it compress together ?

The smaller diameter on the round bit fits inside the pipe to keep it round, both the square part and the round part have a 12mm reamed hole and the 12mm sliver steel fits both parts and keeps it all square.

The firts time I tried it the square part on the tool was the exact finished size of the pipe and it stretched the pipe too much making the square too big.

I had to machine the square smaller than needed to get the right size.

Then I placed a bit of tube in the former and squashed it all together in a vice, it was not perfect so I left it together and tapped the square in closer with a copper mallet.

Cheers

Mark

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 5:30 pm

Eliot wrote:I used these serrated washers under my cap screws:

http://www.calebcomp.co.uk/products/hea ... shers.html

They look like a good idea

Link aded to favorites.

Mark

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:00 pm

If you are TIG welding, make sure you backpurge so the weld doesnt intrude into the pipe.

If it was me though, I'd just MIG. It's neat, quick and easy, and you dont need to worry about backpurging.

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:17 pm

stevieturbo wrote:If you are TIG welding, make sure you backpurge so the weld doesnt intrude into the pipe.

If it was me though, I'd just MIG. It's neat, quick and easy, and you dont need to worry about backpurging.

I was under the impression that stainless needed purging full stop ?

When I picked up the new TIG set for work I tried it on some 3 inch stainless without purging the inside and there were some nasty oxidisation bogies on the inside

Anyone know if just fuse welding the tubes without filler rod would be strong enough ?

Cheers

Mark

stevieturbo · Post by **stevieturbo** » Mon Dec 27, 2010 7:26 pm

Fusing without filler will be fine, but will still oxidise inside.

MIG welding may oxidise a little, but generally nothing intrudes inside the tube so it does remain very clean and smooth.

I'd say that even if you did backpurge, if you arent very good with a TIG the inside still wont be pretty. MIG is just far easier to make a neat job.

If you get Lance/OJZ to weld it up....the welds look as nice inside, as they do outside !!! His work is outstanding.
And TBH, he really isnt expensive either given the quality of work he does.

If I welded it, it would look like f**k all no matter what method lol

Mark · Post by **Mark** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 12:21 pm

I was going to machine a carb intake for fuel injection but have since sold it and bought myself this for Christmas

It is worth 80 ft lbs over a Victor Junior carb intake at 2500 rpm!

It is very tall

But just squeezes under the bonnet

I'm well pleased, the Ford Racing valve covers I have will not fit with this though but it's not too big a problem.

Thanks for looking

Mark

BMWE36V8 · Post by **BMWE36V8** » Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:42 pm

I like this a lot,

Used to have a saphire cosworth with 400+ bhp but it always sounded poop, would have loved to make it sound proper..!!!!!!!!!

Nice work, would like to see when she's done......

Steve.