Engine Wiring Help!!

Crazy · Post by **Crazy** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 5:46 pm

I'm sticking a Rover SD1 3.5L V8 into my Volvo, and I need some help with the electrical side of things for the engine.

I know the basics of the wiring, but if anyone has a wiring diagram (or instructions) for wiring up a 3.5L RV8 that's on carbs (no ecu being run) that'd be a massive help!!

Also, what do I do with the wiring from the dizzy and the condensor to the side of the dizzy? I've read some stuff that says about an ignition module, but I don't have one of these. Is it needed or not as I'm not running an ECU? How do I wire this section up (if I do or don't need an ignition module)

Cheers guys!!! Really desperate for help so hope you guys can help me out here!!!

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:06 pm

Can you post some pictures of the distributor? so we give the right info?

Chris.

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:45 pm

Hello Dominic, The first image should give you some clues as to the engine bay wiring for a non-Efi RV8 post 1985.

Crazy wrote:Also, what do I do with the wiring from the dizzy and the condensor to the side of the dizzy? I've read some stuff that says about an ignition module, but I don't have one of these. Is it needed or not as I'm not running an ECU? How do I wire this section up (if I do or don't need an ignition module)

As for ignition, that will depend upon what dizzy you are using. DM8 or DLM8 For electronic ignition - ie non points.

This non ballasted generic late SD1 RV8 diagram is good for both the amplifier module located mounted inside an aluminium housing mounted behind the coil or on the side of the dizzy, repectively. The components are just located in different places.

Yes! Its the diagram for an Efi car but it'll work for carb cars without the engine running signal from coil negative via a resistor on the BW wire to the non existant ECU.

For this system you do need an amplifier module, mounted either thus

Or thus:

The existance of a condenser depends upon the type of ignition.

As you can see from the diagram even the electronic ignition has one but for a different(RF Suppression) reason as compared to points ignition. where a condenser is used to protect the points from eroding

So! There are other dizzy/ignition systems, points, ballasted, optical, etc, all beyond my ken, so you'll need to specify what type of dizzy you've got for alternative information. Someone will know.

Crazy · Post by **Crazy** » Fri Nov 05, 2010 11:08 pm

Cheers for the diagrams.

The 2nd one is very useful indeed

Here's the best pics I have of my dizzy. Hope these help. I know it says LUCAS on it though.

This looks somewhat similar to mine

Which bit is the module and how is it wired up?

Cheers

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 1:50 am

The module is fixed to the RH side of the dizzy in that image and usually has two external spade contacts, you can see one of them, and two internal contacts/wires gong to the dizzy innards.

I cant tell from your image what you have so youll have to inspect the body for the type number.

The amp moduled is connected internally to the dizzy pickup coil as shown with the R and U wires and externally with the spades, to the rest of the ignition circuit on the W and WB wires. Earth is via the body.

If you have one of the dizzy's mentioned by me, just follow the circuit diagram.

Crazy · Post by **Crazy** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 1:56 am

Cool. I'll get a better pic for you tomorrow. I don't think I have that thing that's attached on the right though.

I've looked on eBay n seen loads of 3 pin modules. Would they do the job? Cheers

ramon alban · Post by **ramon alban** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 2:00 am

I dont know!

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:02 am

Crazy wrote:Cool. I'll get a better pic for you tomorrow. I don't think I have that thing that's attached on the right though.

I've looked on eBay n seen loads of 3 pin modules. Would they do the job? Cheers

You mentioned points earlier - has your dizzy got them? The type of dizzy that has an amp uses an electronic sensor rather than points.

There is a three pin module which is a direct replacement for the earlier two pin one, but you obviously have to change the plug on the loom. Because of this, the Lucas version of this three pin amp usually comes with the correct plug, and instructions for changing it.

There are three basic types of dizzys fitted over the years. It's neccessary to know what type you have, as the wiring is different. The one in your pic is a DLM type. So post the number on the side.

There are also different types of carbs fitted over the years - some involve a fair amount of wiring too.

Crazy · Post by **Crazy** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:28 am

Cheers. The number on the side is

41799B
35DE8 6179

There's no module on the side. I have 2 red n black wires out the condenser n a red n black and a yellow n black wire out the dizzy.

The dizzy doesn't have points, no.

The carbs are twin SU carbs

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:58 am

It an Opus dizzy.

They are not supposed to be that reliable due to the heat cycles blowing up the electronics.

I cut and pasted the below from another website:-

This sounds like you have the Lucas OPUS system 35DE8, and the alloy plate with the 3 spades each end is the ballast resistor.

Connections to this are as follows:-
distributor plugs into the distributor end of the ballast reistor and the white/grn wire on this plug connects to the coil (+) . The white/black goes to the coil (-)

The other side of the ballast is wired as follows:-
Bottom terminal is spare
Middle one should be connected to an ignition switched +12v supply
Top one (marked start) should be connected to the aux spade terminal on the starter motor.

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:09 am

Just found this:-

http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab ... s/opus.htm

And there's this:-

http://www.v8engines.com/electrics-1.htm (don't buy the box of tricks that RPI sell, its Snake oil)

JRV8 might have the silver box that has the ballast resistor that you will need if you stick with this dizzy, personally I'd ditch it and fit a 35DML8 or 35DL8

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 12:47 pm

Crazy wrote:Cheers. The number on the side is

41799B
35DE8 6179

There's no module on the side. I have 2 red n black wires out the condenser n a red n black and a yellow n black wire out the dizzy.

Right - that's an early Opus unit. You'll need the amp which goes with it, if you didn't get it with the engine. Or better, change the dizzy to the later DLM all in one unit.

The dizzy doesn't have points, no.

The carbs are twin SU carbs

Are they manual choke?

Crazy · Post by **Crazy** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:16 pm

They will be set up on manual choke, yes.

And I've been told by my mates to get a dizzy which runs on points as it'll be simpler to get seeing as the Opus dizzy seems to be a bit on the poop side. Sound like a good idea?

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:35 pm

Crazy wrote:They will be set up on manual choke, yes.

And I've been told by my mates to get a dizzy which runs on points as it'll be simpler to get seeing as the Opus dizzy seems to be a bit on the poop side. Sound like a good idea?

In my humble points will be a big step backwards!

DaveEFI · Post by **DaveEFI** » Sat Nov 06, 2010 11:48 pm

Crazy wrote:They will be set up on manual choke, yes.

And I've been told by my mates to get a dizzy which runs on points as it'll be simpler to get seeing as the Opus dizzy seems to be a bit on the poop side. Sound like a good idea?

Only if you like setting them every weekend. There's plenty of good reasons why points stopped being used on these engines over 30 years ago.