When i strip the heads off my rangie for a top end overall what would you guys recomend for a bit more oomph.
ive already got branch manifolds, stainless exhaust and k&n filter.
Cam ?? Headwork????
bit more oomph
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Re: bit more oomph
wayno wrote:
Cam ?? Headwork????
Both
I'm using a Typhoon cam and rhoades lifters in my 3500 and they seem a good combo for street and strip. I'm using 3500 gas flowed heads (pre SD1 with big combustion chambers) with a double valve spring setup as per my original, and I'm using comp gaskets which lower my original CR of 8.3:1 to ?? Something quite low. But she still puts out 187bhp at the fly on the dyno. Which I'm happy with as the original engine was off the shelf at 134bhp with tin gaskets. My auto shifts up quite early even with an adjustable vac modulator turned up to max. My car is quite light and TCI have said this is the reason the shifts wont go above 4200 rpm.
Some folk dont like the pump down lifters as they can be a bit noisy at tickover. They dont pump up till 3700 rpm on mine, but as soon as I'm moving, I cant hear them anyway. My motor develops peak torque at 4600 rpm according to the dyno figures.
Some folk dont like the pump down lifters as they can be a bit noisy at tickover. They dont pump up till 3700 rpm on mine, but as soon as I'm moving, I cant hear them anyway. My motor develops peak torque at 4600 rpm according to the dyno figures.
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300bhp/ton
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I think V8developments do some nice heads for about £850.wayno wrote:whats the ideal cam for my car.
bearing in mind shes an auto and shifts at 5.5k rpm.
want high torque.
Do they respond to headwork.
Im looking at pushing around 220bhp
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/
As for a cam, I say go as wild as you dare going mild nearly always equals dissapointment.
If you off road a lot yo may want to ensure you keep plenty of low end grunt although with an auto this matters no where near as much as it would with a manual.
Are you running EFI or carb because you'll need a tune for sure.
I've got a 3.5 Rover in my Tr7 (ok it's a light weight sports car and is a manual).
It made near 230bhp (flywheel) on the dyno and that was with massive fuel starvation (now sorted
).It really comes on cam @ 3500rpm but will rev to over 6000rpm quite happily. Think it could do with better valve springs though.
It feels like it has less low end grun over stock (SD1 155bhp spec) but that's because it used to fall on it's face and run out of puff early on. Now because it's more lively up top it feels like a totally different engine, however it still makes great low end grunt but the Seat of the Pants feel is a different.
I'd certainly consider a similar setup in a Land Rover and if doing it in a car again I'd certainly go for something wilder. The idle is far too tame for my liking, its like stock. It runs a Real Steel cam (Typhoon I think but really can't remember
)Chevy Camaro z/28 | Triumph TR7 V8 | Land Rover Discovery
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landybob_v8
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i got a kent h214 cam off tony and stuck that in my land rover 90 with a 3.5 using 9:75.1 pistons with a zf4 autobox, it goes well on the road but im yet to take it off road yet but since i used to do the rocky stuff i first had a 3.5 std 8:13.1 twin su setup then went to 3.5 9:35.1 efi lump and a piper torque max cam and now the above mentioned lump i tend to like idling over things these days or full pelt down dirt tracks it shifts enough for me this is on std heads by the way with no injection mods
a vid link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDxLzIbpZwo&mode=related&search=
that combination moves my land rover enough around for me to be happy with and give the mrs a bad neck and a loverly idle note too
a vid link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDxLzIbpZwo&mode=related&search=
that combination moves my land rover enough around for me to be happy with and give the mrs a bad neck and a loverly idle note too
v8's everywhere at least the one in the spare bedrooms gone now
mrs happy again
mrs happy again
Why do you want the lower the CR? I'd guess bumping it up to 10:1 would add a good few easy horsepower, or are you spraying it?mgbv8 wrote:I'm using a Typhoon cam and rhoades lifters in my 3500 and they seem a good combo for street and strip. I'm using 3500 gas flowed heads (pre SD1 with big combustion chambers) with a double valve spring setup as per my original, and I'm using comp gaskets which lower my original CR of 8.3:1 to ?? Something quite low. But she still puts out 187bhp at the fly on the dyno. Which I'm happy with as the original engine was off the shelf at 134bhp with tin gaskets. My auto shifts up quite early even with an adjustable vac modulator turned up to max. My car is quite light and TCI have said this is the reason the shifts wont go above 4200 rpm.
Some folk dont like the pump down lifters as they can be a bit noisy at tickover. They dont pump up till 3700 rpm on mine, but as soon as I'm moving, I cant hear them anyway. My motor develops peak torque at 4600 rpm according to the dyno figures.
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landybob_v8
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Paul
I lowered the CR because I've been experimenting with nitrous. I've been farting around for a year with different combinations. The idea was always to push this engine to its limit to see how much gas the 3500 would take on my carb setup before it broke.
I now have the WON pulsoids hooked up to a WON controller, which I fitted today in place of my old controller which kept packing up after a few seconds at full power.
I also fitted a remote ignition timing module so I can retard it from inside, without messing around with the strobe. I must say, with the CR being so low, she takes plenty of gas with the ignition set at normal. Today was her first run with a 200 shot of gas via the new controller and she took it well.
The engine suffered a little damage in Jan when the rear axle snapped on my first run at the Pod. she over revved really badly, and now has a distinct vibration from the engine. The plan with the new engine is to build it for max output without gas. Then use a smaller amount of gas for track days.
So next weekend at the Pod will see this old engine break quickly, or go quickly. I'd prefer the go quickly option as a first in that equation.
I lowered the CR because I've been experimenting with nitrous. I've been farting around for a year with different combinations. The idea was always to push this engine to its limit to see how much gas the 3500 would take on my carb setup before it broke.
I now have the WON pulsoids hooked up to a WON controller, which I fitted today in place of my old controller which kept packing up after a few seconds at full power.
I also fitted a remote ignition timing module so I can retard it from inside, without messing around with the strobe. I must say, with the CR being so low, she takes plenty of gas with the ignition set at normal. Today was her first run with a 200 shot of gas via the new controller and she took it well.
The engine suffered a little damage in Jan when the rear axle snapped on my first run at the Pod. she over revved really badly, and now has a distinct vibration from the engine. The plan with the new engine is to build it for max output without gas. Then use a smaller amount of gas for track days.
So next weekend at the Pod will see this old engine break quickly, or go quickly. I'd prefer the go quickly option as a first in that equation.
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4646464646
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Try this guy http://www.djev8.com/ Dave Ellis.
He know lots about V8's and will get you sorted!
Very good chap.
He know lots about V8's and will get you sorted!
Very good chap.
I can see why you have the low CR now. 
