Flywheel shim? (Yes that's SHIM not skim)

jetskijase · Post by **jetskijase** » Thu May 20, 2010 8:23 pm

pm'd you mike

but a few questions

i have just finished fitting an rv8 into my rh and had a spacer made up for a csc002 concentric cutch from a mondeo , i have a standard 9.5inch sd1 clutch. i was told that when the engine gearbox where fitted the slave should be fully compressed on the fingers MINUS 5mm. Is this correct??

i have tried a 3/4 land rover master cylinder and jacking one side up in 1st gear i pressed the pedal all the way and could just about turn the wheel hearing the new clutch plate scrape. BUT then it went pop!!

, bit of research on here and i've poped the seals by not using a stop!!! so i was nearly finsihed but now have to take engine out again!.
anyways!,
my question is my 5mm measurement was rough, am i right is saying fit a new cylinder spacing it out slightly and fitting a stop??

cheers all
jase. (whos sadly wont be finishing the build this weekend!!

!

seight · Post by **seight** » Fri May 21, 2010 12:27 pm

Hi Jase,
I can sympathise with mate. The whole clutch thing nearly sent me mad.
I popped the seals on my first slave which was from a Saab. But that was down to the master cylinder being adjusted incorrectly. The pushrod did not come out all the way when the pedal was up so the valves inside weren't doing their job properly and each press of the pedal just took more fluid from the reservoir. I bought a replacement pushrod that had a bit more thread on it and that part was sorted. Maybe you've got s similar situation. I don't think a single full travel of the .7 master was enough on its own to blow the Saab slave.
After that, only when I had the master pushrod sorted, I found that the sleave just leaked anyway on its own. The Saab slave sits on a seal between it and the bellhousing which (as I now know) is notorious for failing. Seems fine when on the bench but when in the car up against a 330ft/lb clutch it gives up. Hence the reason why I went for the AP version, it has no seal at the back and is totally self contained in that respect.
In the end when AP sent me the figures for slave vs finger travel it was fairly easy to sort out.
From what I understand 5mm clearance will be fine. Push your slave all the way in, measure from the bearing face to the front of your bellhousing, measure (somehow) from the clutch fingers to the back of the block where it meets the bellhousing, subtract one from the other and anything around 5mm is ok.
I have fitted a stop on my pedal just in case and will be setting it up correctly soon (too many other bits to sort out). At the moment I can put the car in gear and roll it with the pedal on its stop. If the car creeps when at the lights then I know I need a bit more.
Do you know the max travel of the Mondeo slave? I guess you'll find out when it's the bench again!
Can you put the gbox in without the engine, connect the clutch and measure the slave travel for a given pedal/pushrod travel? That should help work it all out.
Patience is a virtue - the whole lot nearly went on ebay (that might be a euphemism for "the f'in bin") at one point but I'm happy now.
Mike

jetskijase · Post by **jetskijase** » Fri May 21, 2010 3:45 pm

cheers mike!! yes i did have a little tantrum in the corner of the garage when it went pop!!!!!

i'am taking just the engine out (hopefully) tonight and its a good point about trying it without the engine! i can then get some proper measurements.
i'am using a brand new land rover master cylinder and the push rod has full travel, i had my foot on it while reaching back to try and turn the wheel and felt the seals go, so a decent stop will be sorted.
i think i have 20mm travel on slave but not 100%

i've been told i can just "pop" the seal back in, any experiance of this, might be self explanatary when its in my hand again.

thanks again.
now its too hot in the garage!!! highly annoying as the "group" are having a run out this wkend!!

seight · Post by **seight** » Fri May 21, 2010 5:08 pm

Yes as far as I know you can just 'pop the seals back in'. With the Saab slave they are just a pair of big o-rings, one inside and one outside of the bearing carrier. A bit of steady pressure and you should be able to push the carrier part back into the body of the slave.
With the clutch I have (which is basically the same as the Rover cover) AP said it needs 8mm to release. So you're about in the same position as I am 5mm or so clearance and 8mm to release = 13mm. The Mondeo slave might not hold much fluid hence popping it.
Good luck.
Mike

jetskijase · Post by **jetskijase** » Fri May 21, 2010 9:24 pm

cheers mike, i've been searching for ages to find out how much the fingers need to release. 8mm then.

got it all out tonight ( not too bad as havent connected the water yet!)
just pushed the slave cyinder back down with a "pop" and seems fine.

i found that i used one of those chinese steel rulers when fitting it originally!! about a good 6-8mm out! i can space it out 7mm safely so where i was just releasing at the very end of the travel before i should be well in the middle!!

result !
thanks guys!!!