Bleedin' Clutch!!!
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stevieturbo
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- topcatcustom
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Well as the pedal was as light as the spring that holds it up before I'm pretty sure it wasnt working, so here's the answers to your questions.
stevieturbo wrote:link no work.
Although usually airlock is the culprit.
So does the slave move at all ? Is there any response at the slave from pedal movement ?
Dont know yet but given the pedal goes hard just like any other car with a fairly heavy clutch I'd guess so, as mentioned planning on taking slave out to see how much movement.
From dry, can fluid gravity feed from reservoir, straight through to the slave nipple ok ?
Yep, slowly but yep.
Have you tried bleeding in reverse ? ie, pump fluid into the nipple ?
Yep, air bubbles out
Tried pressure bleeding from reservoir to slave nipple ?
Yep, didnt seem to expel all air though
Can you clamp off the line to the slave, and see if the pedal is rock solid ? It should be if there is no air in the master.
Nope- hard line
Likewise pressing the slave rod with the line clamped.
TC
- topcatcustom
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Well as the pedal was as light as the spring that holds it up before I'm pretty sure it wasnt working, so here's the answers to your questions.
stevieturbo wrote:link no work.
Although usually airlock is the culprit.
So does the slave move at all ? Is there any response at the slave from pedal movement ?
Dont know yet but given the pedal goes hard just like any other car with a fairly heavy clutch I'd guess so, as mentioned planning on taking slave out to see how much movement.
From dry, can fluid gravity feed from reservoir, straight through to the slave nipple ok ?
Yep, slowly but yep.
Have you tried bleeding in reverse ? ie, pump fluid into the nipple ?
Yep, air bubbles out
Tried pressure bleeding from reservoir to slave nipple ?
Yep, didnt seem to expel all air though
Can you clamp off the line to the slave, and see if the pedal is rock solid ? It should be if there is no air in the master.
Nope- hard line
Likewise pressing the slave rod with the line clamped.
TC
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stevieturbo
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stevieturbo
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- topcatcustom
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It is way too far down the pedal to be used properly- in my landy I just adjust it on the master cylinder push-rod thread until it starts to go hard when I push the pedal and feels right- never been a problem and is no slack at the top, though it is a different looking cylinder to the one I am using.
TC
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stevieturbo
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given hydraulic systems more or less self adjust ( unless there is something pushing the slave back in far beyond what the pressure plate will )
There really shouldnt be any adjustment needed. SO if the pedal moves a lot before anything happens, there is air there somewhere.
If you can remove the slave and lock it solid, and press the pedal. That will easily tell if there is air in there. With the slave unable to move, the pedal should be rock solid.
There really shouldnt be any adjustment needed. SO if the pedal moves a lot before anything happens, there is air there somewhere.
If you can remove the slave and lock it solid, and press the pedal. That will easily tell if there is air in there. With the slave unable to move, the pedal should be rock solid.
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
- topcatcustom
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After sticking my head and a light under the footwell again I noticed the pedal was stopping early as a cable was getting snagged- moved this, re-adjusted the push-rod position to zero at pedal up position and we got some clutch. Gave it a couple of mm more to just take up the slack that was still there in the linkage and there we got a heavy clutch that feels proper (can feel it push and go past the heavy point properly), so happy for now!
The clevis type linkage was almost out of thread when adjusted so I took it off and will make it slightly longer at work tomorrow and go for the final adjustment when I get back over there. Happy now
Looks like after the initial bleeding trouble it was basically the adjustment in the mechanical side.
That for the persistant help stevie
-will report back once it is on and adjusted again.
p.s. we tested it by just pushing the car and trying the clutch in gear and no dodgy noises of gears not quite dis-engaging or anything so fingers crossed it will be fine when I go to take it up to the mot station!
The clevis type linkage was almost out of thread when adjusted so I took it off and will make it slightly longer at work tomorrow and go for the final adjustment when I get back over there. Happy now
Looks like after the initial bleeding trouble it was basically the adjustment in the mechanical side.
That for the persistant help stevie
p.s. we tested it by just pushing the car and trying the clutch in gear and no dodgy noises of gears not quite dis-engaging or anything so fingers crossed it will be fine when I go to take it up to the mot station!
TC
