i have had a price of 95 not sure if thats plus the dreaded or not.
cheers mike
cost for bulleting valve guides fitted
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cost for bulleting valve guides fitted
hi guys getting my engine ready to go in and having read thro previous posts it seems that one of the best mods for the heads is bulleted guides, just wondering if anyone has any idea of prices to have them fitted? save me phoning round everywhere
i have had a price of 95 not sure if thats plus the dreaded or not.
cheers mike
i have had a price of 95 not sure if thats plus the dreaded or not.
cheers mike
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CastleMGBV8
- Top Dog
- Posts: 2334
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
- Location: Sidcup, Kent, UK
Mike
If your existing guides are not worn then just grind them down to approx 1/4" from the roof of the ports, for a mild engine I would only do the Inlets as the guide in the exhaust port does help with cooling of the exhaust valve.
What other head mods have you done as bulleting the guides on their own will have little effect if no other mods have been done.
Also what is the engine size, what vehicle is it in, and it's intended use.
Kevin.
If your existing guides are not worn then just grind them down to approx 1/4" from the roof of the ports, for a mild engine I would only do the Inlets as the guide in the exhaust port does help with cooling of the exhaust valve.
What other head mods have you done as bulleting the guides on their own will have little effect if no other mods have been done.
Also what is the engine size, what vehicle is it in, and it's intended use.
Kevin.
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CastleMGBV8
- Top Dog
- Posts: 2334
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
- Location: Sidcup, Kent, UK
Mike,
Leave them as they are then, if it a late 4.0 cross bolted engine and unless it was guaranteed not to have a liner problem it would be sensible to have the block pressure tested to make sure it does not have the dreaded crack behind the liner problem that besets a high percentage of the 4.0 engines.
if it's done more than 70k miles then the cam and lifters will probably need replacing as they can wear badly.
You don't say where your based but parts can be sourced competitively from Real Steel or V8 Tuner, stay away from RPI unless you have deep pockets and want to sold a lot of stuff you don't need! If you add your location to your log in, it helps people who are giving advice.
A decent high torque cam would probably be of benefit for your type of vehicle and usage.
Kevin.
Leave them as they are then, if it a late 4.0 cross bolted engine and unless it was guaranteed not to have a liner problem it would be sensible to have the block pressure tested to make sure it does not have the dreaded crack behind the liner problem that besets a high percentage of the 4.0 engines.
if it's done more than 70k miles then the cam and lifters will probably need replacing as they can wear badly.
You don't say where your based but parts can be sourced competitively from Real Steel or V8 Tuner, stay away from RPI unless you have deep pockets and want to sold a lot of stuff you don't need! If you add your location to your log in, it helps people who are giving advice.
A decent high torque cam would probably be of benefit for your type of vehicle and usage.
Kevin.
The engines a land rover recon unit of eBay so I presume it will have new cam etc, and hopefully the block, will be sound. I'm just looking at stuff I can do to gain a little bit while it's out.
Any recomendations for a cam? I would probably get a distributor camshaft so I could run a 3.5 cover if I was to change it.
Any recomendations for a cam? I would probably get a distributor camshaft so I could run a 3.5 cover if I was to change it.
Firstly if you want to clean up the ports its easier if the guides are removed first, gives a bit more room to maneuver the tool. What we do is press the old guides out, you can drift them but it takes a bit more care and effort. You will need a 10 ton press to get them moving if they have been in there a while. Just make a drift/press tool that fits the O/D and I/D of the guide, a little smaller on the O/D. Its better if you can make a receiver that will accept the guide and sit nicely on the spring seat then press out from the bowl side. I then trim a set of standard guides to 2" and 2 1/4" and radius the ends, then fit from the spring side until the radius just protrudes into the port. This also leaves the guide short enough to run a 234 cam and allows the retainer to clear the guide.
Alan
Alan
