Hi all, Happy new year to everyone. I have nolt been on in a while, works kept me busy and I have been converting my Landy to 24 spline axles and lockers, but I am now back to tinkering with the engine, I have found that the extra air valve is not working correctly, I tried stripping it but it made no difference, so I am running with a pipe clamp on the hose, for now.
Has anyone any modification advice for changing it to something else? I have read a Jag one fits but I assume its the same design?
Extra air valve mod possibilities?
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mikeinatruck
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ramon alban
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Hello Mike,
If your EAV looks like this, they are pretty much bullet proof but if they stop working there are basically four reasons.
1 crud jamming the rotating disc
2 internal heating element failed
3 electrical connection problem at the rear connector or elsewhere in the Efi wiring loom.
4 human intervention poking around with pointy spike thro inlet/outlet holes.
# They can be stripped down by drilling out the rivets and cleaned/inspected, even repaired, then closing and refixing with nuts and bolts.
# Spares should be freely available from early land rover, range rover second-hand spares supplier, I can.t be sure about jags of the era, but would likely be the same item.
# For the record they are not operated in conjunction with the thermotime switch, but operate stand alone from manifold temperature, PLUs the fuel pump relay and a ground on pin 34 of the ECU.
# Everything you could possibly need to know is here: http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pag ... Air01.html including operating description and dynamic testing.
I have not come across any ways of modifying or substituting the EAV.
If your EAV looks like this, they are pretty much bullet proof but if they stop working there are basically four reasons.
1 crud jamming the rotating disc
2 internal heating element failed
3 electrical connection problem at the rear connector or elsewhere in the Efi wiring loom.
4 human intervention poking around with pointy spike thro inlet/outlet holes.
# They can be stripped down by drilling out the rivets and cleaned/inspected, even repaired, then closing and refixing with nuts and bolts.
# Spares should be freely available from early land rover, range rover second-hand spares supplier, I can.t be sure about jags of the era, but would likely be the same item.
# For the record they are not operated in conjunction with the thermotime switch, but operate stand alone from manifold temperature, PLUs the fuel pump relay and a ground on pin 34 of the ECU.
# Everything you could possibly need to know is here: http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pag ... Air01.html including operating description and dynamic testing.
I have not come across any ways of modifying or substituting the EAV.
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mikeinatruck
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Its getting power and is part closing but when I stripped it I found it badly worn out inside with a few years worth of oil residue as well. Its had its day I guess.
It does look like the one in the picture, I guess I will just have to get a another of fleabay when it comes up, at the moment I just clamp my hose when the engine is warm, so its not a show stopper.
I had hoped some of you serious modding guys may ahve done some sort of conversion but alas no, thanks anyways...
It does look like the one in the picture, I guess I will just have to get a another of fleabay when it comes up, at the moment I just clamp my hose when the engine is warm, so its not a show stopper.
I had hoped some of you serious modding guys may ahve done some sort of conversion but alas no, thanks anyways...
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badger
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The early jag 4.2 efi (series 3 XJ6) fits straight on, but your idle speed will be higher when cold as the cutaway machined on the internal moving plate is a different profile. I opened up one many years ago and re-profiled the cutaway for a 3.9 conversion because the jag one had it idling at 2000rpm on cold start!
Two functional tests to try :-
1. place cold, in a bucket of boiling water, and check that valve slowly closes.
2. from cold, connect 12v across plug and check it slowly closes.
A failure to operate in either hot water or 12v will mean it won't work properly.
Two functional tests to try :-
1. place cold, in a bucket of boiling water, and check that valve slowly closes.
2. from cold, connect 12v across plug and check it slowly closes.
A failure to operate in either hot water or 12v will mean it won't work properly.
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ramon alban
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The disc requires BOTH 60-70 degree C AND the heater coil on 12 volts, to fully rotate into the closed position.badger wrote:Two functional tests to try :-
1. place cold, in a bucket of boiling water, and check that valve slowly closes.
2. from cold, connect 12v across plug and check it slowly closes.
A failure to operate in either hot water or 12v will mean it won't work properly.
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badger
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Ramon, I don't want to start any arguments here, but I can assure you from personal experience that the valve WILL close fully with just the coolant temp, BUT it takes an age and any drop of underbonnet temp quickly sees the idle speed on the way up again. I doubt if the 12v would close it fully, it never seemed to on mine, but then that's why I specified 2 seperate tests.... 
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ramon alban
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No Argument Badger, We are both right. How so?
I specified:
"The disc requires BOTH 60-70 degree C AND the heater coil on 12 volts, to fully rotate into the closed position."
See this snipped image from The LAND ROVER Service Product Training Manual.
Your experience says:
"the valve WILL close fully with just the coolant temp, BUT it takes an age and any drop of underbonnet temp quickly sees the idle speed on the way up again."
So the valve closes with more than 60 to 70 degrees C, normal operating temperature going as high as (say) 90 degrees C, but dislikes the marginal drop in temperature from an open bonnet.
We are both on the same song sheet, but your observation highlights WHY both the minimum manifold temperature and the 12 volt feed have to be present, otherwise in a very cold climate, the EAV may not stay consistently shut, depending upon airflow over the inlet manifold and raise the idle speed when not expected causing auto gearbox creep at road junctions etc.
Ramon
I specified:
"The disc requires BOTH 60-70 degree C AND the heater coil on 12 volts, to fully rotate into the closed position."
See this snipped image from The LAND ROVER Service Product Training Manual.
Your experience says:
"the valve WILL close fully with just the coolant temp, BUT it takes an age and any drop of underbonnet temp quickly sees the idle speed on the way up again."
So the valve closes with more than 60 to 70 degrees C, normal operating temperature going as high as (say) 90 degrees C, but dislikes the marginal drop in temperature from an open bonnet.
We are both on the same song sheet, but your observation highlights WHY both the minimum manifold temperature and the 12 volt feed have to be present, otherwise in a very cold climate, the EAV may not stay consistently shut, depending upon airflow over the inlet manifold and raise the idle speed when not expected causing auto gearbox creep at road junctions etc.
Ramon
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mikeinatruck
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jrv8
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How many do you want ? I have plenty of good condition used ones here priced @ £5.00 each + £3.50 p/pmikeinatruck wrote:These things seem a bit thin on the ground
Regards
Jim
www.jrv8.co.uk
