TH400

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:14 pm

We are talking about manual valve bodies - you keep your standard auto lever or use an aftermarket shifter such as a B&M shifter.

They are a bit like a true sequential box - but they obey you exactly - so wacking it back into 1st when you really ment to select 3rd (from 2nd) and it will go straight in - unlike a manual where the syncro's would put up enough of a fight to make you think twice. (ask how I know why)

I had it for a while, but went back to full auto - much better if setup nicely.

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:43 pm

Elliot
I bet you said some rude words at that point

Mike

Eliot · Post by **Eliot** » Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:59 pm

it was caused by the fact that the direction for punching up and down was opposite to my daily driver which had a tiptronic box (BMW).

archangel · Post by **archangel** » Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:30 am

bigaldart wrote:A much lighter alternative is the Ford C4 which can be used with a simple adapter ring to mate a BW35 bell housing to the front pump then torque converter spacers to get proper engagement.
Alan

bigaldart!!!
So, you adapted a C4 to a Rover V8 with a Borg Warner 35 bell housing?

Have you any pictures?

How did you determine the crank shaft center line for setting up the trans?

I am looking to make a bell housing to fit a C4 to a Buick 215 and need the crank shaft center line location for both engines.

bigaldart · Post by **bigaldart** » Mon Dec 21, 2009 11:54 am

Its not a difficult thing to set up. Simply a 1" thick steel ring mounting to pump on C4 and mating to BW35 round flange on bell housing. Then from memory 1" spacers from converter to flexplate. Because everything is round its not hard to keep things lined up. I bought it ready done, but the box is out and being reworked so I will get some photo's. Will be a while as the weather is not in favour at the moment. Be patient and I will post as soon as I can get some. Will take measurements as well to tie everything up.
We have been very happy with the conversion and the gearbox has been flawless. Before we changed we were smashing the planetaries in the BW 65, now got about 100HP more and no probs, touch wood.

Alan

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:43 pm

Just back to the original question (sort of), what would be the best boxes to choose from behind a big block ford or chevy, drag use only, 1000bhp+

I have seen a C6 on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-C6-AUTO-BIG- ... 19bcbaccd1 which has a bbf bell housing, but after some brief research it says whilst being strong they also sap a LOT of power, is a TH400 still best or are there any other options that are bullet proof? What is most popular in drag racing with big block powered cars on meth or similar? (Not too hot on classes atm)

Magnetteman · Post by **Magnetteman** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 5:05 pm

If it was for drag racing only I'd go with a TH400 and a reverse pattern manual conversion which will also give you transbrake capabilities for good hard launches.

It's true they are a strong box and will easily and fairly cheaply modify to be practically bulletproof.....unless you hold the transbrake too long on the start line in which case you'll cook the box.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:56 pm

What is the transbrake advantage? Surely if you are holding the transmission and let it go all of a sudden it will slap the diff gears together and cause damage (even if the tooth clearance is only a few thou), if you are holding the car on the brakes then the whole drivtrain will already be pre-loaded so no lash when you drop the brakes and go?

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:28 pm

Hi Tom
if you are drag-racing on a 1000+bhp you will be on a spool so no diff gears to worry about, as for the crown wheel and pinion, you will hit them fairly hard, but most of the shock will be taken on the thrust bearing face of the pinion wheel.
Mike

JJMclure · Post by **JJMclure** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:44 pm

transbrake allows the suspension to be at rest on the line, if you're footbraking it then the rear will be squating like a dog doin a jobbie. In theory if the spensions at rest it can react as it's designed to and not already be using some of its travel. Transbrake does seem a very violent hit but if you've got your rear suspension set up ok it should be able to handle it, or do a wheelstand! Ah yeah. I've got a dvd from the states with loads of guys footbraking off the line and they run very respectable times