Cerametallic clutch on the road?

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crayefish
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Cerametallic clutch on the road?

Post by crayefish »

I am considering my clutch choices at the moment (a bit premature as the engine isnt built, but I like to be informed!).

AP Racing says cerametallic clutches are good for off-road use as they allow much more clutch slip and can take the heat better. However they say its not for road use. I assume the clutch would be a lot harsher, but I though I might be able to get longer clutch life and would be less likely to burn it out off-roading.

What are peoples experiences with the driveablity of a cerametalic for everyday driving?


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topcatcustom
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Post by topcatcustom »

If it is ceramic and made for more slipage wouldn't it be less harsh? Paddle clutches made for racing are not made for any slippage and bite like hell, so I'd assume it would be the opposite!

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Post by crayefish »

Well its not made to slip easier, it can just handle more slipping... ie. it can handle higher temps as a result of slipping.
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Post by stevieturbo »

Paddle clutches will grip more, and be more aggressive in their take up.

You should never really be slipping any clutch though, thats just plain bad driving !!!

If you want smooth engagement, stick to organic. But most modern paddles really arent that bad anyway.
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Post by crayefish »

stevieturbo wrote:Paddle clutches will grip more, and be more aggressive in their take up.

You should never really be slipping any clutch though, thats just plain bad driving !!!

If you want smooth engagement, stick to organic. But most modern paddles really arent that bad anyway.
Thanks mate. So you think it would be acceptable on the road, abit a little harsh?

Well in off-roading there are times when you want to slip the clutch as it gives more control over speed (eg rock crawling) than just the accelerator alone. Used together, the clutch and accelerator can really tweek the speed so you just clear that mound/boulder but without running into the tree etc infornt! :D
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Post by stevieturbo »

Slipping any clutch will soon destroy it, whatever the reasons.

Some people can drive perfectly with a paddle clutch, some cant. So there is no answer as to whether its suitable for the road.


But either way, you need to install a clutch suitable for the "abuse" requirements it will see. Whilst a paddle may handle more heat...Im still not convinced I'd want to use one where a lot of slippage would be used.
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Post by crayefish »

I see your point. Would you perhaps recomend a higher rated organic clutch? Perhaps I could find someone who has a cerametallic clutch and see how easy it is to engage! :lol:

Well the clutch wouldnt be slipped for extended periods or time, just more than on a road car.

I asked about the cerametallic as AP Racing said it was particularlly suited for off roading where more slippage occurs. I cant find the info online, but its in my AP catalogue...
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Post by crayefish »

Oh and this is from a company called Exedy who make clutches.

"EXEDY cerametallic friction material can handle much more slippage than stock type disc assemblies without slipping and fading."
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Post by Boosted LS1 »

I've used a paddle clutch on the road, it's either in or out imo. It'll jolt when it engages and you pull away and the back end can hop on downshifts as you belt round or up to a roundabout. Paddle clutches are cheap compared to a twin plate mcleod organic clutch with marcel strips which give a cushion effect as they take up drive.

I guess it all depends on you expected torque and the size of your budget. A rangerover clutch is bigger diameter then a rover, that may be an option. Also, I think Real Steel offer some upmarket friction plates that may be worth considering.
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Post by Boosted LS1 »

crayefish wrote:Oh and this is from a company called Exedy who make clutches.

"EXEDY cerametallic friction material can handle much more slippage than stock type disc assemblies without slipping and fading."
But this just means if it slips it won't be knackered as quickly as other clutches? It'll still get knackered though in the same way as your brakes would be cooked if you kept a light pressure on the brake pedal. Slippage makes metal turn blue!
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Post by stevieturbo »

As above, slippage will destroy any clutch.

As for paddles and driving, Ive driven plenty, and most wouldnt bother me in the slightest. But some people really wouldnt be able to. Some are worse than others though.

On a heavy 4wd lump like a Land Rover, I wouldnt be overly concerned about drivability. Im sure it will be fine.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
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Post by crayefish »

'lump'? I take insult to that! Its a race car that has just put on a few pounds over christmas... :lol:

Well in the end I guess the price difference between an organic range rover clutch and a cerametallic one will be a major factor.

Anyone near london want to let me try out their cerametallic clutch? :D
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Post by Boosted LS1 »

I wouldn't want to use a paddle in a stop start line of traffic on a 2 mile gradiant on a bank holiday, lol. Better to park up for a few hours and wait till the road clears.
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Post by stevieturbo »

Price difference between an uprated paddle and organic wont be that much.


And Mike. Ive driven paddles that wouldnt bother me at all in traffic. And some that would annoy. And of course the odd one that is f***** awful.

But generally, most modern materials used are quite forgiving. Obviously if its a daily driver, and you'll see traffic jams every day, then no, a paddle isnt the best choice. An automatic is lol.

But I suspect it isnt such a vehicle
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202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
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Post by topcatcustom »

Zander, is the clutch that AP recommended a paddle type or full circle? If it is a conventional type but of course the uprated material, I'd say it would be fine. I can't see it grabbing if it is made to handle slippage, normal clutches work fine and will slip enough for general and off road driving, the cerametallic material just helps prevent it burning out so quickly.
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