Distributor Problems

General Chat About Electrics, And Ignition Systems.

Moderator: phpBB2 - Administrators

sidecar
Top Dog
Top Dog
Posts: 2399
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:52 pm

Post by sidecar »

Aragorn wrote:Ok, So i got angry with a hammer and large steel rod and managed to get it to come apart.

Took some photos

Advance mechanism against the stop:

http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g ... alNumber=2

If i twist the advance mech open then release it, it moves back to here and then stops, it does seem to be freeing up a little bit:

http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g ... alNumber=2

And a pic of the baseplate, i'm hoping it will streighten up:

http://www.lr90.org/gallery2/main.php?g ... alNumber=2

Edit: image tags didnt like the php image engine :(

So where exactly should i be oiling?

You need to oil where the bob weights pivot on the pins, keep working the mechanism until it is totally free. Also poor oil down the middle of the main shaft where the rotor arm sits, you need this oil to work its way down the shaft. Maybe use WD40 as its thin and will hopefully draw out the crap and rust. When its nice and free then used something a bit thicker like engine oil.

The base plate does not look too bad, I'm sure that you can just tweak it straight.

Clean up the central hole of the 'spikey star wheel' with some fine wet and dry with WD40 on it so that its a nice fit on the shaft but does not get jammed on it.

When rebuilding the dizzy try the get the shaft to come through the base plate nice and centrally before you nip up the three screws that hold it in place. Set the pickup gap to 10-20 thou.

Set the timing to 12-14 static, check the all in, it needs to be 36 thou on a 3.5, in around 2500 - 3000 RPM. You can probably use the vac system as you are running with SU's. If it does kick back as you open the throttle you will have to run with less static or ditch the vac system. I now think that Rover/Lucas cocked up this side of things but it was too late in the development to sort it out. They then bodged a fix by stating the the static timing should be 6 degrees. There is no way that the combustion chamber is such a good design that it only needs 6 degrees static advance. (Just a theory!).

Hopefully your engine will pull much better after you've done all that! :D

Pete


Post Reply

Return to “Electrical & Ignition Area”