Rover V8 Test 'Bed'

stuartl · Post by **stuartl** » Fri May 29, 2009 7:11 pm

After an unexpected break in my project due to a major illness in the family I can now start to think about my car again.

Does anyone have a 'test bed' for a Rover V8 that is surplus to requirements? I want to get the engine running out of the car before test fitting then giving it a nice coat of paint and finally fitting it.

I am also after a pointer for the most basic requirements fuel and electric wise to get the engine running out of the car.

Many thanks in anticipation of any info offered

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Fri May 29, 2009 8:56 pm

You can make a simple test bed from angle iron, provided you want to run the engine unloaded. Just support it on the engine mount holes on the block.

Is it carb or EFi?, and what is the ignition system you plan to use.

For reference, I did just that with a 3.5 EFi Range Rover engine.

Chris.

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Fri May 29, 2009 9:35 pm

There must be a reasonably easy way of using say a torque converter linked up to the bed to get a torque reading on an engine being fired up? Have thought about it a little, but of course the engine wouldn't be run in so a bit fresh and tight for a power run...

ppyvabw · Post by **ppyvabw** » Sat May 30, 2009 2:15 am

ChrisJC wrote:You can make a simple test bed from angle iron, provided you want to run the engine unloaded.

Yeps. I considered selling the engine out of my first car by building a test bed. I thought it would bounce about but my dad, being more experienced than me, said it would be fine. Make two simple T piece things with large feet with angle iron with the top piece at an angle so they point outwards, then weigh them down with something. We would have used big concrete lintels left over from building the house. Connect up a garden house pipe for cooling as a simple cooling measure but don't run it for long like this or you'll shag it I think.

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Sat May 30, 2009 9:19 am

I included a radiator & header tank on my test-setup, and a full exhaust system. Then I could run it up to temperature and pressure and check for leaks and the like.

I used a mower petrol can for a tank.

It was EFi, so it took more wires than a carb engine...

It didn't move around at all.

Chris.

stuartl · Post by **stuartl** » Sat May 30, 2009 9:19 pm

Thanks for the replies chaps.

I have seen a vid on You Tube where a V8 is fired up while swinging from an engine crane with a garden hose providing the cooling while the water spews out the other end onto the garage floor. I wanted to be a little more refined and as has been mentioned here, I have bought the front pipes from an SD1 and I have assorted rads/cooling fans etc so hope to be able to run it up for a fairly decent amount of time.

Once it is sitting in its temporary cradle I will be after pointers as for the simplest way to have the engine running electrics-wise out of the car

OK,OK!!! I just want to savour the V8 burble........

Thanks again for all the info

Regards

Stuart

Boosted LS1 · Post by **Boosted LS1** » Sat May 30, 2009 11:01 pm

I have a test bed based on an engine stand with 4 wheels. Engine bolts to the stand in the normal manner and I have bolt on upright supports from the stand legs to the engine mounts. At the front of the stand I have horizontal square inserts which slide into the stand's feet and these inserts support a huge lorry radiator.

I have guages for oil, coolant temp etc. I use this for chevrolet engines but would only have to change the uprights to suit a different engine.

HairbearTE · Post by **HairbearTE** » Sun May 31, 2009 9:54 am

A good way to mount the rear of the engine is by using an old bellhousing and then mounting a plate to that. From a safety point of view it's nice to have any flywheel or flex plate covered up. Go karts and lawn mowers are good doners for a fuel tank, you might have to open up the output pipes a little. Cheapo guage packs can be bought on ebay that will do the job. If you're running efi or ignition amps like msd etc then it's useful to incorporate a wooden board on the test bed somewhere so that stuff can be screwed to it and wires pinned down etc.

stuartl · Post by **stuartl** » Sun May 31, 2009 10:12 am

That sounds the sort of thing I want to make as I have the guages, rads, fans etc.

I will also be a good excuse to brush up on my mig welding skills as well.

I will be running twin SU's in the first instance so I hope the wiring will be straightforward enough for my limited skills!

tobbjo · Post by **tobbjo** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:07 pm

I've had a few beers, so my be talking out my ar-e, but have been thinking about the exact same thing for my engine build. Now, i I bolt on the flex plate and torque converter and bolt a long handle to the floor and the flex plate and I have a 4ton scale connected between the handle and the TC I may measure the load i get from the TC at stall speed and then I can calculate torque?

Obviously I will need to bolt the engine to the floor or it will spin off.

Just the type of redneck engineering (called firewood shed engineering over here) I'm (in)famous off!

Tobias

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:40 pm

What I was thinking of! Only downside is there are not many people who are willing to go for a power run before the engine has been fully run in!!!

bigaldart · Post by **bigaldart** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:42 pm

Once you break the cam in, flat tappets only, rollers don't need it. Then just run the thing, you won't do any harm, will probably get better performance out of it, downside is a life expectation of 30-50,000 miles. That is excellent for any High Performance engine. Babying it in the early stages of its life can result in excessive wear. The engine takes longer to get to temperature, fuelling in the part throttle areas is rarely as accurate as WOT and idle which are easily and quickly set, same goes for timing. Why anyone would want to spend time running in an engine is beyond me! You can wear the engine out before you ever see the best of it. Do the power runs, just make sure it is tied down.

Alan

kiwicar · Post by **kiwicar** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 7:20 am

Hi Tobbjo
Basic idea is correct but you will be stuck with runnung it at the stall speed of the torque converter. What you want is a big impeller in a cylinder which is used to pump/shear a fluid, like a real dyno, and measure the torque on the housing as you described. I certainly think it is a viable wood shed project.
Mike

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:51 am

Hi Alan, I do agree with you about the running in, after doing some reading on the subject it does make sense to go for it after the cam is bedded in, however when everyone has been told their whole life to take it easy for 500 miles it is hard to bring everyone round!!!

Ok this is for bike engines- but it is a good read! http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

unstable load · Post by **unstable load** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:09 pm

This is for aero engines.....
http://www.pennyanaero.com/pages/break_in_operating
Points 11, 12 and 14 basically sum it up.