couple of questions

roofman · Post by **roofman** » Tue Jul 01, 2008 5:35 pm

when i swapped my 4.6 for a 3.5 (fuel costs) i had a small intermitent knock and found it was the sump pan hitting the front crank web--the gap is very small at the front and iff the motor has been knocked it can just be enough to foul the crank. hth

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:07 pm

ok i'm finally getting around to doing something with this mystry engine
as it's running a big holley carb on an edelbrock manifold that really wouldn't suit for what i want it for and i have a single webber that i could fit that came of a 3.5
i'd really like to know what it is
is the only way to determine what size the engine is too take off the heads and have a look see
second question what would the holley and manifold be worth to sell it's in good condition although untested by me it was owned and driven by a guy i know and trust before he took it out to fit an oil burner

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:19 am

The engine number should allow you to determine engine size. However, you can rebuild the internals to give just about any size by re-boring, new liners, different crank etc, so if you suspect the engine has been modified, then yes you need to look inside.

I think I'd remove the sump to be honest and measure the bore and stroke that way.

Chris.

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:31 pm

well this might turn into a pic heavy thread now as i went investigating the engine yesterday and got a horrible suprise

but used the camera along the way
the lad i bought it from took it out of his land rover and told me he had it well covered and protected from the rain
when he delivered it i put in straight into dry storage and there it has remained for about 6mnths now
anyway before i took off the sump to see what was what i tried to turn it over with the crank bolt i could go from 10 to 2 and that was it anyway to cut a long story short it somehow got left with a couple of cups of water in the rear offside cylinder and also some in the one next to it and its done alot of damage to the bore probably terminal

so i decided i'd strip it competely

so heads are off

sump is off

waterpump and front housing too

camshaft is out

pistons and con rods are out and the bolts holding the crankshaft are out

but how do i get the crank shaft out of the block

there are 5 metal blocks that had two bolts in each that would appear to hold the crankshaft in place(main bearings) how do these come out as they seem very tight and i don't want to damage anything
i have lots of pictures if i can work out how to post them

Pocket rocket · Post by **Pocket rocket** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:46 pm

Not sure if it's the right procedure but I used a wooden drift and a mallet to knock the tight main bearing caps until they can be moved by hand. then it was just a case of wiggling them until they eventually come out.

They are designed to be a tight fit

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:12 pm

thanks for that i'll give it a go tomorrow , i'm gutted to say the least as i had real plans for this , it is actually a 4.6 well thats whats on the crankshaft and it would have been real fun in the little 80" series one lookalike i was intending it for
it had been built with loving care each con rod was punched with a number of dots to id it and the inside of the valley was like new when i opened it up
i'll just salvage as much as possible and keep my eyes open for another block and maybe rebulid it one day
or would it be worth getting a new liner or two pressed in

CastleMGBV8 · Post by **CastleMGBV8** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:33 pm

Have you removed the cross bolts for the main bearing caps, these are on the outside of the block on either side above the sump mating area.

kevin.

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Tue Apr 21, 2009 10:47 pm

no but now you say that i know what you mean i'll

CastleMGBV8 · Post by **CastleMGBV8** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:31 am

To post pictures you need to host them on photobucket or similar.

If the effected cylinders are 6 + 8 I would suspect cracking behind the liners which has allowed coolant to escape from the top and is most common on the 4.0 and 4.6 engines.

I would have the block pressure tested and you could possibly get away with just having the two effected cylinders top Hat Linered as a cheap but effective fix.

Where are you based?

Kevin.

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 8:38 am

im in ireland so i'll have to do a bit of research and see can i find someone who knows there stuff here, i was talking to a guy yesterday from v8 tuners who was very very helpfull he recomended a guy called jim robinson in northern ireland .
the damage has been caused by water actually being left in the bore i think from rain getting in or similar after it was removed from the l/r it was in , there was nearly too much for it to have come anyother way
but yes it may be easier and in the long term a better option to get the affected liner/liners replaced

CastleMGBV8 · Post by **CastleMGBV8** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:32 am

I though you were,

In that casr give Jim at JRV8 a call he's a great guy and knows Rover V8's inside out and he's very reasonable on prices.

http://www.jrv8.co.uk/

Kevin.

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:15 am

thanks for that

Post by **katanaman** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 4:07 pm

JRV8 is also a member on here.

landkeeper · Post by **landkeeper** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:05 pm

i gave him a ring and he was a wealth of help and information so i'm going to bring the block up to him at some point in the near future and let him give it the once over , and then i suppose we can take it from there
thanks for the pointers and help lads