Hi Folks,
I bolted thhe engine in to the Spitfire chassis at the weekend and last night bolted up th gearbox. Just to check that everything was moving ok, I manualy operated the clutch arm ( shoved the push rod) and the arm went all the way back and touched the bell housing and it did not feel like that the release bearing touchedthhe pressure plate. Are there different types of arms bearings etc?
Cheers
Chris
LT77 clutch arm and bearing
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jrv8
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 11:44 am
- Location: Ballymena Northern Ireland
- Contact:
Hi,
There are different types of bearing, depending on clutch type, and there are also different lengths of bearing carrier. The clutch fork pivot posts are also available in different lengths, as well as different lengths of pushrod.
You need to use the correct combination for it all to work properly.
If you want to give me a call or a PM, I should be able to help.
Regards
Jim
There are different types of bearing, depending on clutch type, and there are also different lengths of bearing carrier. The clutch fork pivot posts are also available in different lengths, as well as different lengths of pushrod.
You need to use the correct combination for it all to work properly.
If you want to give me a call or a PM, I should be able to help.
Regards
Jim
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Andy515666
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:59 pm
Hi Spittie
Mate i had the same problems as you a year ago. Nightmare because once i got the adaptor for the wrong bearing.. i put it all back together only to find the pivot pin was the wrong length. It required either a washer behind it (i think it was 6mm from memory) or the correct size (which i ended up going for). I took the box out like 3 times and swore never to do it again!
However, the spigot bearing had issues so yet again i was getting the box out lol.
Anyway best to check everything all at once and get the right parts.
Mate i had the same problems as you a year ago. Nightmare because once i got the adaptor for the wrong bearing.. i put it all back together only to find the pivot pin was the wrong length. It required either a washer behind it (i think it was 6mm from memory) or the correct size (which i ended up going for). I took the box out like 3 times and swore never to do it again!
However, the spigot bearing had issues so yet again i was getting the box out lol.
Anyway best to check everything all at once and get the right parts.
Chur Bro
Hi Andy,
thanks for that.
I had a few telephone calls and sent pics to jrv8 and he helped sort me out. All is well now, but gearbox is back out, thats due to having to take out a notch of my chassis to make it all sit low enough.
Well time to get on with the next glitch.
Cheers
Chris
thanks for that.
I had a few telephone calls and sent pics to jrv8 and he helped sort me out. All is well now, but gearbox is back out, thats due to having to take out a notch of my chassis to make it all sit low enough.
Well time to get on with the next glitch.
Cheers
Chris
It's taken longer than I thought !!
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Nick Moore
- Newbie
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:13 am
- Location: Moranbah, Australia
- Contact:
Hi Chris,
I'm slowly building a similar project, stuffing an RV8 in a poor Herald, so can guess where you'll be making a notch in the chassis rail - to accomodate the clutch arm's bellhousing protrusion? I chopped off the outside corner of the bellhousing here to get the gearbox another inch or so further back in the chassis. If I could find an annular clutch release bearing and get rid of the large lump of bellhousing entirely, the motor could sit even further back!
Happy hacking,
Nick
I'm slowly building a similar project, stuffing an RV8 in a poor Herald, so can guess where you'll be making a notch in the chassis rail - to accomodate the clutch arm's bellhousing protrusion? I chopped off the outside corner of the bellhousing here to get the gearbox another inch or so further back in the chassis. If I could find an annular clutch release bearing and get rid of the large lump of bellhousing entirely, the motor could sit even further back!
Happy hacking,
Nick
It's not a bodge if no one finds out!
Hi Nick,
I have got my engine as far back as possible, cut a good notch (chunk) out the chassis. Made up a nice carboard template of the plate to go back in and a local metal worker is making me up a nice strong plate to replace whats missing. I have also welded in some nice strengthening plates inside the chassis to keep the strength.
What you doing for brakes, suspension and diff ?
I am using Gt6 brakes, rotoflex rear suspension. I heard somewhere about somebody using a Suburu diff.
Chris
I have got my engine as far back as possible, cut a good notch (chunk) out the chassis. Made up a nice carboard template of the plate to go back in and a local metal worker is making me up a nice strong plate to replace whats missing. I have also welded in some nice strengthening plates inside the chassis to keep the strength.
What you doing for brakes, suspension and diff ?
I am using Gt6 brakes, rotoflex rear suspension. I heard somewhere about somebody using a Suburu diff.
Chris
It's taken longer than I thought !!
-
Nick Moore
- Newbie
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:13 am
- Location: Moranbah, Australia
- Contact:
Hi Chris,
The rear suspension's finished, and uses a Sierra diff, fabricated halfshafts, double wishbones, front coil-overs (for convenience's sake) and Sierra disc brakes. The Subaru diff was another option, but the ratios are wrong for a V8 - you'd always be revving too high. The lowest Sierra ratio is 3.14:1, so perfect for an open road cruiser. I thought about sticking with rotoflex, but watched a 2.5 Vitesse accelerating and marvelled at the changes in toe-in under power. It could have been improved by adding a second wishbone pivot point on the chassis, but replacing the whole lot gave a stronger solution.
The front suspension is still being built. I decided to get away from trunnion troubles and am using Cortina uprights and hubs just like the Locost 7 kit car lads do. There are several companies selling fancy bigger brake packages. I've only gone up to 14" rims, to keep a decent amount of sidewall and a Q-car look, so the biggest discs possible are around 260mm.
One worry with a Herald chassis is that they're not very rigid, so, to reduce longitudinal flex from the engine's torque, I'm adding a raised backbone tying the front and rear suspension together. In a race car a roll cage would work even better, but I'm building a road car. This'll mean you can't remove the gearbox without pulling the engine first, but I'm hoping not to have to work on the gearbox too often!
In the end there aren't any Triumph parts in the drivetrain, but I don't want to always be worrying about which bit will break next.
[/img]http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2425 ... ension.jpg
The rear suspension's finished, and uses a Sierra diff, fabricated halfshafts, double wishbones, front coil-overs (for convenience's sake) and Sierra disc brakes. The Subaru diff was another option, but the ratios are wrong for a V8 - you'd always be revving too high. The lowest Sierra ratio is 3.14:1, so perfect for an open road cruiser. I thought about sticking with rotoflex, but watched a 2.5 Vitesse accelerating and marvelled at the changes in toe-in under power. It could have been improved by adding a second wishbone pivot point on the chassis, but replacing the whole lot gave a stronger solution.
The front suspension is still being built. I decided to get away from trunnion troubles and am using Cortina uprights and hubs just like the Locost 7 kit car lads do. There are several companies selling fancy bigger brake packages. I've only gone up to 14" rims, to keep a decent amount of sidewall and a Q-car look, so the biggest discs possible are around 260mm.
One worry with a Herald chassis is that they're not very rigid, so, to reduce longitudinal flex from the engine's torque, I'm adding a raised backbone tying the front and rear suspension together. In a race car a roll cage would work even better, but I'm building a road car. This'll mean you can't remove the gearbox without pulling the engine first, but I'm hoping not to have to work on the gearbox too often!
In the end there aren't any Triumph parts in the drivetrain, but I don't want to always be worrying about which bit will break next.
[/img]http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2425 ... ension.jpg
It's not a bodge if no one finds out!
I used to have Herald uprights in my Morris Minor. I have 14" TR7 Minators from Rimmers, and first ran 260 mm BMW discs with Vectra calibers. I then updated the front with Chevette uprights and A-arms. The brakes were the updated to 280x24 mm Carlton discs and Porsche Boxster rear 4-pot caliber. They still fitted inside the 14" alloys. I have now replaced the caliber with Brembo 4-pots from Seat Cupra R, again they fit inside the Minators but need a 15 mm spacer. So, 260 mm is not the limit. If you want, PM your e-mail and I cans send you some pics.
