Removing Front Pulley

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:56 am

Never done this and can't find info on it, but i know it's gonna be a pain in the ar$e. I have to mount my trigger wheel on the back of the pulley rather than the front, which means taking it off. Any suggestions? The engine is in and ain't cooming out again, will I have any issues with timing etc?? What sort of torque we talking here? cheers

ChrisJC · Post by **ChrisJC** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:38 pm

No problems with timing etc.
The crank pulley bolt can be ferking tight - you really need to lock the engine though. I made up a piece of angle iron with holes in it to bolt to the crank pulley. The angle iron was long enough to foul on the chassis and hence not budge when undoing the crank bolt.

Alternatively you might be able to lock the flywheel end somehow.

Chris.

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:42 pm

the " bodger " way put a socket and long bar on the nut and so it rest's on the chassis ...then you won't like this one .. click the starter DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE COIL HT LEAD SO THAT IT WON'T START ..
it works for me , i have just come inside after doing the very thing

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:06 pm

Shite, well the gearbox is also on and not coming off, and the front is pretty tight, and the wiring isn't done lol . . . might have to make this one up as I go! Although I do have some angle iron somewhere . . . cheers!

sidecar · Post by **sidecar** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:16 pm

ChrisJC wrote:No problems with timing etc.
The crank pulley bolt can be ferking tight - you really need to lock the engine though. I made up a piece of angle iron with holes in it to bolt to the crank pulley. The angle iron was long enough to foul on the chassis and hence not budge when undoing the crank bolt.

Alternatively you might be able to lock the flywheel end somehow.

Chris.

That's more or less how I did it, I used old table legs welded up to form a tool that I could bolt onto the damper.

I think that the 'other' way is a bit dodgy

(Stripped flywheel teeth etc) I'm sure that it does work though!

Pete

vaultsman · Post by **vaultsman** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:32 pm

bodger wrote:the " bodger " way put a socket and long bar on the nut and so it rest's on the chassis ...then you won't like this one .. click the starter DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE COIL HT LEAD SO THAT IT WON'T START ..
it works for me , i have just come inside after doing the very thing

Yep, I tried this a couple of times years ago and it works. Bit scary the first time though!

Had quite a bit to do on the 35-year old P6's rear suspension recently, and we all know how seized that stuff can be. Fancied an impact wrench but didn't fancy the 200 quid + for one..then I chanced on this:

24V Impact Wrench

OK it's Rolson

but I thought it worth a go at that money. It's been great so far.

Crank pulley nut on the RV8 is 15/16" A/F and it was a breeze.

Little cash for these sockets too:

AF Impact Sockets

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:30 pm

chodjinn wrote:Shite, well the gearbox is also on and not coming off, and the front is pretty tight, and the wiring isn't done lol . . . might have to make this one up as I go! Although I do have some angle iron somewhere . . . cheers!

you don't need it wired up ..if have a starter motor fitted , just connect a battery with jump leads to the main terminal on the starter and the earth any where on the engine then a piece of wire connected to the small terminal on the starter motor ..(its actually a lot easier this as you can be at the front to make sure the bar is in place )
then touch the small wire on the + battery terminal , that will act as your ign switch and turn the engine over

bobs your uncle and fannys your aunt , job's a goodun

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:39 pm

ok i'm gonna give it a shot this weekend. What's the torque amount to tighten it up again? I'm sure i read 200Nm somewhere?

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:50 pm

bodger wrote:the " bodger " way put a socket and long bar on the nut and so it rest's on the chassis ...then you won't like this one .. click the starter DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE THE COIL HT LEAD SO THAT IT WON'T START ..
it works for me , i have just come inside after doing the very thing

Lol I did this by accident with my landy a couple of months ago- left the socket and bar on and fired it up to warm it up- saw a big bolt on the ground underneath and thought SH1T!!!

I just get someone to put their foot on the brake pedal whilst in 5th gear. works for me.

bodger · Post by **bodger** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:55 pm

chodjinn wrote:ok i'm gonna give it a shot this weekend. What's the torque amount to tighten it up again? I'm sure i read 200Nm somewhere?

approx FT ..lol

no really 190 - 210 lb's ft / 257 - 285 Nm
..or as tight as you can get it , i add a drop of thread lock too and it's always come undone again ... when i need it to

deetes · Post by **deetes** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:46 pm

PM'd you

mgbv8 · Post by **mgbv8** » Thu Dec 04, 2008 9:40 pm

On my V8 I can get a pair of 24" stillsons on the rear of the crank pulley from underneath. I hook these on and turn the pulley until they hit the floor. Then I use a 24" breaker bar and socket to undo the bolt. But I have in the past done the starter trick. Its a bit scary, but it works just fine.
The problem is when you need to bolt it back on and torque it up. Thats where the stillsons thing comes into its own.

satancom · Post by **satancom** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:10 pm

Drop the sump.. stick a fenc post beteween the block on athe crankshaft couter weight and heave on the crankshaft pulley with a breaker bar and scaffolding pole.. Its how i did mine

chodjinn · Post by **chodjinn** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:40 pm

not gonna get chacne to do this until the new year now due to decorating committments

topcatcustom · Post by **topcatcustom** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:32 pm

I still say just put it in 5th and get someone to hold on the brakes!!!