carbs hot cold start
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carbs hot cold start
ok before i strip them down and clean the carbs i had topcat round to day to give me a clue about my engine (big thanks m8) ok we no the carbs are running a bit lean on cold start up but once the engine is hot it still struggles to kick in once its running its fine its just when starting it seem to not wont to fire up so im going to adjust them to make them a bit more rich (any advise) but just wont to see if anyone can point me to a thread to why its struggling to kick in or is it time to strip them down give them a make over and take it from there if i do strip them down is there any think i should be replacing or keeping a close out for ??
cheers
shane
cheers
shane
- Ian Anderson
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 2448
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
What is the engine? Ford/ Chev/ Rover/ Other
What are the carbs? Holley / Weber / SU/ Solex
Any mods on the motor?
Is timing known to be OK?
Ian
What are the carbs? Holley / Weber / SU/ Solex
Any mods on the motor?
Is timing known to be OK?
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
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- Top Dog
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- topcatcustom
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Ah solex
If it is not the diaphrams (at thirty years old these should be good and perished by now) worth changing if they havent been done in the last 10 years as they not only split they get little pin holes in them.
Then the other thing with solexes is the idle and part throttle transition is done by lots of little drillings in the body of the carb, if it has been stood for any time full of leaded fuel (actually even unleaded but not as quickly)you get all these bunged up with gunge, this design was asmuch to get around patents on the SU as let the car idle, a solex carb will idle on the main ventury, but not as well as if it is all clean. Oh if it has an auto choke get rid of it (though it sounds like you havent).
Mike
If it is not the diaphrams (at thirty years old these should be good and perished by now) worth changing if they havent been done in the last 10 years as they not only split they get little pin holes in them.
Then the other thing with solexes is the idle and part throttle transition is done by lots of little drillings in the body of the carb, if it has been stood for any time full of leaded fuel (actually even unleaded but not as quickly)you get all these bunged up with gunge, this design was asmuch to get around patents on the SU as let the car idle, a solex carb will idle on the main ventury, but not as well as if it is all clean. Oh if it has an auto choke get rid of it (though it sounds like you havent).
Mike
poppet valves rule!
- topcatcustom
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I have no experience of Strombergs, but i did recently strip down, clean and reassemble my SU's with all new seals.
All i can say is that it was amazingly simple! My carb experience until then had only been the smaller Weber and Zenith carbs used on the 2.25 LR lumps and they were complicated in comparison.
The plus with the SU's is that there is no rubber diaphragm to perish...
All i can say is that it was amazingly simple! My carb experience until then had only been the smaller Weber and Zenith carbs used on the 2.25 LR lumps and they were complicated in comparison.
The plus with the SU's is that there is no rubber diaphragm to perish...
SU's, basic design from about 1905 ish, not really changed from then (apart from moving the float bowl). the newest ones are from the mid 80's so are pretty old, the pistons wear where they fit the venturi with the result that they become very difficult to set up especially at idle and the transition to part throttle. lots of needles, jets and springs available and if unworn in basic form (no fancy doo dads for emisions) are straightforward to set up and stable once done.
Solex/ stromberg, about 25 years old (newest ones) don't have the piston wear problem to the same extent as the SU as the diaphram forms a full seal to the top of the carb. This diaphram (and the cheeper build quality) are its big reliability problem. The Stromberg is really an attempt to build a variable venturi carb without paying royalties to SU as a result things like the transition CCT and the Idle and choke set ups are to work around the simple copyrighted bits of the SU. Basically not a bad carb, but limmited needles and springs, can't use SUbits as they do not fit properly and all the daft drillings get bunged up.
If you can find someone doing new pistons and bells and venturi sleeves for the SU (and people do them fron time to time) then that is your best bet. No one bothers with the stromberg so actually they can be found in virtually new condition (swapped for SUs when virtually new) for peanuts but you need to find good ones.
Mike
Solex/ stromberg, about 25 years old (newest ones) don't have the piston wear problem to the same extent as the SU as the diaphram forms a full seal to the top of the carb. This diaphram (and the cheeper build quality) are its big reliability problem. The Stromberg is really an attempt to build a variable venturi carb without paying royalties to SU as a result things like the transition CCT and the Idle and choke set ups are to work around the simple copyrighted bits of the SU. Basically not a bad carb, but limmited needles and springs, can't use SUbits as they do not fit properly and all the daft drillings get bunged up.
If you can find someone doing new pistons and bells and venturi sleeves for the SU (and people do them fron time to time) then that is your best bet. No one bothers with the stromberg so actually they can be found in virtually new condition (swapped for SUs when virtually new) for peanuts but you need to find good ones.
Mike
poppet valves rule!