Any of you guys / girlies had any problems using:
Mallory 8mm plug wires (supressed)
AND
NGK BPR6ES sparkies.
There seems to be some issues with this combination in that these wires and these plugs should not be used simultaneously.
Whats the opinions please?
Resistor spark plugs
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Dangerdoc
Resistor plugs
Indeed.
The R in BPR is for resistor. Combining the resistor aspects of the leads and plugs is less than ideal.
I was unsure, and remain so, about the leads as to whether they are "suppressed" or "resisted" not being clear on the terminology.
Depending on where I look I get conflicting messages so best to ask the gurus and wizards in this somewhat fabulous place what the best is.
I think, from what I can gather BP6ES plugs and 8mm Mallory leads is a better combination.
The R in BPR is for resistor. Combining the resistor aspects of the leads and plugs is less than ideal.
I was unsure, and remain so, about the leads as to whether they are "suppressed" or "resisted" not being clear on the terminology.
Depending on where I look I get conflicting messages so best to ask the gurus and wizards in this somewhat fabulous place what the best is.
I think, from what I can gather BP6ES plugs and 8mm Mallory leads is a better combination.
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stevieturbo
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 4054
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:22 pm
- Location: Northern Ireland
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Dangerdoc
Resistor lugs
Hi Stevie,
Good news that you are not getting any problems.
From what I can gather from the likes of Mallory and RPi using resistor sparkies and resisted / supressed leads together with either LPG / petrol reduce the intensity of the spark.
This leads obvioiusly to poorer fuel burn and plug contamination - naturally loads of other things cause this. I have noticed an increase in plug fouling only after changing to BPR6ES and Mallory 8mm suppressed leads.
Local Halfords only stock BPR NGK plugs - cannot get non-rsisited plugs. So have had to resort to ordering from online store 16 BP6ES plugs (hope you noticed the spare set, deffo not a V16 !)
I was keen to know if anyone is having the same hassle
Good news that you are not getting any problems.
From what I can gather from the likes of Mallory and RPi using resistor sparkies and resisted / supressed leads together with either LPG / petrol reduce the intensity of the spark.
This leads obvioiusly to poorer fuel burn and plug contamination - naturally loads of other things cause this. I have noticed an increase in plug fouling only after changing to BPR6ES and Mallory 8mm suppressed leads.
Local Halfords only stock BPR NGK plugs - cannot get non-rsisited plugs. So have had to resort to ordering from online store 16 BP6ES plugs (hope you noticed the spare set, deffo not a V16 !)
I was keen to know if anyone is having the same hassle
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stevieturbo
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 4054
- Joined: Sat Nov 18, 2006 6:22 pm
- Location: Northern Ireland
I dont think Ive used a non-resistor plug in my life.....although anywhere that stocks plugs should be able to order them in.
Or there is that www.sparkplugs.co.uk site.
Resistor are reccomended by all car manufacturers that I am aware of, to reduce electrical noise/interference.
What is your coil like ?
Or there is that www.sparkplugs.co.uk site.
Resistor are reccomended by all car manufacturers that I am aware of, to reduce electrical noise/interference.
What is your coil like ?
9.85 @ 144.75mph
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
202mph standing mile
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgWRCDtiTQ0
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Dangerdoc
Plugs
Hi Stevie,
Mallory Hyfire 6A CDI ignition, Mallory Promaster 29440 coil, 57 series Mallory MBI dizzy, Mallory 700 ballast resistor, Mallory 8mm Sprint Silicone Supression (yellow) HT leads, OEM (new and tested) coil and Mallory EZ Trigger unit.
Obviously I don't like the Mallory lot at all, ahem, .... well not quite.
The whole system is wired exactly as Mallory and centuryperformance have specified in their drawings and also their email communications.
Reading up on several areas it is made clear that BP6ES is the best plugs to use with this combination as I was using BPR6ES plugs (gaped at 8mm) due to the very intense spark and thus the recommended widened plug gap.
I have been blowing magnetic breaker units in the dizzy and am now on the 3rd. Hence such intense research and obsessive setup.
The breaker air gap has been critically checked at 0.007" - as recommended.
I am thinking that the only real way to increase timing accuracy is to switch out the 57 series dizzy and MBI unit and go over to a unilite dizzy.
They say that the MBI units are a bit fragile and lose about 1deg per 1K rpm due to the magnetic lead in and decay flux, the unilite is spot on at higher revs. However that said I am not racing the thing just normal driving.
The plug and lead combination seem to be the key suspects.
Not sure what else can be the suspects?
Mallory Hyfire 6A CDI ignition, Mallory Promaster 29440 coil, 57 series Mallory MBI dizzy, Mallory 700 ballast resistor, Mallory 8mm Sprint Silicone Supression (yellow) HT leads, OEM (new and tested) coil and Mallory EZ Trigger unit.
Obviously I don't like the Mallory lot at all, ahem, .... well not quite.
The whole system is wired exactly as Mallory and centuryperformance have specified in their drawings and also their email communications.
Reading up on several areas it is made clear that BP6ES is the best plugs to use with this combination as I was using BPR6ES plugs (gaped at 8mm) due to the very intense spark and thus the recommended widened plug gap.
I have been blowing magnetic breaker units in the dizzy and am now on the 3rd. Hence such intense research and obsessive setup.
The breaker air gap has been critically checked at 0.007" - as recommended.
I am thinking that the only real way to increase timing accuracy is to switch out the 57 series dizzy and MBI unit and go over to a unilite dizzy.
They say that the MBI units are a bit fragile and lose about 1deg per 1K rpm due to the magnetic lead in and decay flux, the unilite is spot on at higher revs. However that said I am not racing the thing just normal driving.
The plug and lead combination seem to be the key suspects.
Not sure what else can be the suspects?
im running resisted plugs with my mallory system.
Regards Tony C (COOPS)
MS2 V3.57 Ecu mapable efi and wasted spark ignition.
Procharger D1SC supercharger and Cossie RS500 Intercooler @ 14psi of Boost. 416 RWHP, (boost leak)
Forged 4.8 V8 kitted out with the dogs Cajones of parts.
Sponsored by: www.v8performanceparts.co.uk, www.interpart.biz, www.caprisport.com & www.baileyperformance.co.uk
MS2 V3.57 Ecu mapable efi and wasted spark ignition.
Procharger D1SC supercharger and Cossie RS500 Intercooler @ 14psi of Boost. 416 RWHP, (boost leak)
Forged 4.8 V8 kitted out with the dogs Cajones of parts.
Sponsored by: www.v8performanceparts.co.uk, www.interpart.biz, www.caprisport.com & www.baileyperformance.co.uk
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Dangerdoc
Resistor plugs and CDI
Hi Katanaman,
Yip, perfectly valid point. No you should not be using ballast resistors with CDI units but read the whole thread above and you will see that I am running two coils.
The Hyfire controls all matters BUT the MBI in the dizzy needs protecting as it is still connected to an OEM coil hence the +Ve supply to the OEM coil is at a reduced voltage to save the MBI from being killed.
If there was no OEM coil then no problems. The OEM coil only is there to send the correct trigger pulse to Pin one on the ECU.
Yip, perfectly valid point. No you should not be using ballast resistors with CDI units but read the whole thread above and you will see that I am running two coils.
The Hyfire controls all matters BUT the MBI in the dizzy needs protecting as it is still connected to an OEM coil hence the +Ve supply to the OEM coil is at a reduced voltage to save the MBI from being killed.
If there was no OEM coil then no problems. The OEM coil only is there to send the correct trigger pulse to Pin one on the ECU.
