real steel typhoon cam preload help

[gulf blue rsr]

Hi,

new to this forum and had a good study at the interesting reading.
I've bought a part built 3.5 rover that has been rebored, new pistons etc, from memory lightened/balanced crank, high pressure oil pump typhoon cam with hydraulic lifters (I think from memory!)

I've bought a pair of stage 2 heads and new rocker gear.

I'm intending to use composite gaskets unless everyone says tin???

My big dilemma is ..... just use shims to set the preload or go all the way and get some adjustable pushrods?

The other and probably biggest thing I'm stuck on is... what preload do I use for the Typhoon cam?

I've spoken to Realsteel and they say the best way is to use adjustable rods (but then are they just after the bigger sale? ) they also say they will give me the cam set up imfo when I order the rods.

All this is just to go in a Range Rover classic, currently I have a janspeed turbo conversion in it but it is now doing 10 to the gallon on all fluids...oil water and petrol so has seen better days!!

If there is really that much gain from adjustable rods I will go with them but I'd rather not if they are not going to be that much better or more reliable.

Thanks STEVE

PS I'm also intending to go to lpg but can't decide whether to use flapper efi or carbs either Weber/hollie or su's ???

[sidecar]

Hi,

new to this forum and had a good study at the interesting reading.
I've bought a part built 3.5 rover that has been rebored, new pistons etc, from memory lightened/balanced crank, high pressure oil pump typhoon cam with hydraulic lifters (I think from memory!)

I've bought a pair of stage 2 heads and new rocker gear.

I'm intending to use composite gaskets unless everyone says tin???

My big dilemma is ..... just use shims to set the preload or go all the way and get some adjustable pushrods?

The other and probably biggest thing I'm stuck on is... what preload do I use for the Typhoon cam?

I've spoken to Realsteel and they say the best way is to use adjustable rods (but then are they just after the bigger sale? ) they also say they will give me the cam set up imfo when I order the rods.

All this is just to go in a Range Rover classic, currently I have a janspeed turbo conversion in it but it is now doing 10 to the gallon on all fluids...oil water and petrol so has seen better days!!

If there is really that much gain from adjustable rods I will go with them but I'd rather not if they are not going to be that much better or more reliable.

Thanks STEVE

PS I'm also intending to go to lpg but can't decide whether to use flapper efi or carbs either Weber/hollie or su's ???

Hi,

I've tried to use shims, personally I hated them!

I went for RS pushrods in the end. You can then set each and every preload at 20 thou (This setting according to the books is a better setting than 40-60 which is what RS recommend). Whether getting them spot on or not makes any difference, well I don't know but I spent a bomb on my motor and did not want anything to rob me of BHP

Check that the pushrods at either end of each head has clearance, I bit of filing of the head might be required. Shims make the valve train geometry worse and it ain't that good to start with even with a standard cam!

I'd go for comp gaskets and get 20 thou skimmed off to maintain the CR that you've got now or more skimmed off to raise the CR. Each 8 thou off the head is worth 1cc reduction in the vol of the chamber. DON'T FIT THE OUTER HEAD BOLTS!


I run a weber, its a good carb but does need recalibrating from the out of the box settings (I bet any make of carb will! RS hate the weber and will try and flog you a holley. Holley from RPI will try to flog you a weber...work that one out!).

Don't forget to run the cam in!

Pete

[mgbv8]

Depends what you intend using the engine for really.
Be wary of the hi flow oil pump kit. These can put excess strain on the dissy drive gear.
I've got RS adjustable push rods on my latest engine, and I use shims on my spare engine. I dont find the adjustable rods make a whole lot of difference even when racing.
Your setup sounds like my old 3500 from RS. Rebored, balanced, Typhoon + Rhodes lifters, standard heavy push rods and pedestal shims. My 3500 is very quick with this setup.
If you are using Rhoades lifters and not the stock Rover ones, you need to remember that the rhoades have a smaller diameter cup than the Rover ones. Therefore the adjustable rods can be made to fit by purchasing chrome moly rods with the separate ends. You will have to get the moly rods machines to the right length before you can fit the rod ends.
If you send me a PM I'll give you all the info on my old 3500 setup sp as not to repeat what has been said on here many times before.
Perry

[gulf blue rsr]

Thanks Perry PM sent,

the engine will be used in my daily driver Range Rover Classic, I use it for work mostly often towing a 16' trailer with up to 3.5ton ON! the trailer.

I guess the cam is not the ideal choice for low down torque and towing but I do like to drive quick once it gets wound up! and the cam was already in the engine when I bought it so just thought I'd give it a try and change at a later date for something more suitable if I can't get on with it.

As I think I said at the moment I'm running a Janspeed turbo conversion and was hoping to keep some of the performance but hopefully gain more reliability without the turbo, the turbo has been good fun but at a price with running cost, I was looking to gas it but was advised only sequential would be safe with the turbo and backfires, I have several single point lpg kits on different scrap RR's I have about the place so would prefer to go down this route. Previously I ran a 4.6p38 and enjoyed that performance but my dog wrote that off for me one day!!

Would I be better of ditching the hp oil pump and going with a new/rebuilt standard one?

I think the lifters are standard rover but how can I tell is there an easy way? I will be stripping the old engine and will compare them is it obvious when they are side by side?

When you say "standard heavy pushrods" I assume you mean heavy as in weight not heavy duty thick? Or should I go with heavy duty thick ones?

If I can get away with just shims I would be happy with the cost saving as I'm not after every last hp out of it just a reasonable bang for the money, that said I feel that if I've got this far I don't want to be tight at the end just for the sake of it!

Thanks for all your help so far please keep it coming!

STEVE

[chodjinn]

Gimme a shout if you want to sell the janspeed kit on mate, I may well be very interested!

And stay awway from flapper systems!

[gulf blue rsr]

I'll almost definitely end up selling the turbo kit on assuming I get the desired results from the above engine, I'm not exactly sure what it will be worth but if you want to make me an offer or if anyone has any ideas let me know, I've seen a few go on Fleabay and was quite surprised at the prices they reached!

I think I've got a carb and manifold sorted not sure exactly what is is yet I'll be seeing it over the w/e so hopefully I won't have to mess with the injection, only down side is that I'll then be on the look out for a 4 barrel lpg mixer, anyone have one or advise where to get one??

STEVE

[JP.]

If I can get away with just shims I would be happy with the cost saving as I'm not after every last hp out of it just a reasonable bang for the money, that said I feel that if I've got this far I don't want to be tight at the end just for the sake of it!

Thanks for all your help so far please keep it coming!

STEVE

Yess you can get away with just shims. Ill use these for years now whitout anny probs.
Ill even use them with my Merlin heads where Real Steel supliet the special ones.
With shims you'll use an avarage preload that come close to the specs for one cylinder bank and again on other avarage preload for the other cylinderbank.