Nice work.
Chris.
AutoCAD DWG exhaust flange/head
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Ian Anderson
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 2453
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Ralph
It looks good and tight against the heads etc.
A couple of things to check though
1) Can you get the bolts in to mount to the heads? And if you can get them in can you get a spanner in to tighten them?
2) Can you remove your plugs with them in place.
3) Will your plug leads & connectors miss the headers.
It should also give a good spread of power as the primarys will all be different lengths so not "tuned" to be better in a certain rev range
Just a pity thoygh that you did not connect 1&4 togrether and 2&3 together then mergge the 2&3 form left with the 1&4 from the right - better pulsing through the secondaries
IAn
It looks good and tight against the heads etc.
A couple of things to check though
1) Can you get the bolts in to mount to the heads? And if you can get them in can you get a spanner in to tighten them?
2) Can you remove your plugs with them in place.
3) Will your plug leads & connectors miss the headers.
It should also give a good spread of power as the primarys will all be different lengths so not "tuned" to be better in a certain rev range
Just a pity thoygh that you did not connect 1&4 togrether and 2&3 together then mergge the 2&3 form left with the 1&4 from the right - better pulsing through the secondaries
IAn
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
valid points, never thought about the plugs etc but i think they will be ok, will check.Ian Anderson wrote:Ralph
It looks good and tight against the heads etc.
A couple of things to check though
1) Can you get the bolts in to mount to the heads? And if you can get them in can you get a spanner in to tighten them?
2) Can you remove your plugs with them in place.
3) Will your plug leads & connectors miss the headers.
It should also give a good spread of power as the primarys will all be different lengths so not "tuned" to be better in a certain rev range
Just a pity thoygh that you did not connect 1&4 togrether and 2&3 together then mergge the 2&3 form left with the 1&4 from the right - better pulsing through the secondaries
IAn
thought about the bolts and some maybe tricky to get to but its somethign i will have to work around. the bolts definatly go in but gettign a spanner/socket to them may be the trouble but will be possable on allone way or another.
i just copyed th eoriganal manifold with 1-2 and 3-4 joined, then on the other side 1-3 and 2-4 are joined, is this not the best way?
Ralph
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Ian Anderson
- Forum Contributor
- Posts: 2453
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 9:46 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
Ralph
Firstly I'm no expert but have read a load on the subject.
What I have learnt is that they try to get the pulses down the pipes to be separated as far as possible.
Now if you work out the firing order and then work out where to connect the pipes to achieve this you need to do the crossing over of the pipes 2&3 on each side to meat up with 1&4 from the other - this gives you the effect of each secondary pipe getting a pulse alternately. Some say this makes it sound like 2 four cylinders in perfect sequene.
Now a fully tuned length full cross over system where the pipes going into the 4 to 1 collectors in the correct order (making the 4 pipes fire in order around the collector - called rifling as it swirls the exhaut through the secondary) is said to give up to 35 more hp on a given engine.
In a normal 4 into1 on each side you get one down the left then 2 right 2 lect one right (If memory serves me correct) giving the V8 rumble (as the firing order per side are not evenly spaced.
So if you look at it what you are trying to achieve is get a pipe the correct length and batched together correctly so when the charge from one cylinder exits it resonates back along the other pipes connected to it and the reverse pulse gets back to the valve just before the valve opens and hence the last charge helps evacuate the next charge (causes a small vacuum)
You could also read for ages on the subject and get baffled by reverse cones steps and other things that the pro's use - I found it interesting and tried to get my head around it but got lost - hence my statement about not being expert but have some gleaned information from many hours of reading
On the bolts - may be worth checking if allen key heads would allow easier fitting - may be able to squeeze the allen key past the header.
If you want fire me your e mail address on a pm and I'll send your some pics that show what I mean - I have never yet managed to get photos to link to this site!
Ian
Firstly I'm no expert but have read a load on the subject.
What I have learnt is that they try to get the pulses down the pipes to be separated as far as possible.
Now if you work out the firing order and then work out where to connect the pipes to achieve this you need to do the crossing over of the pipes 2&3 on each side to meat up with 1&4 from the other - this gives you the effect of each secondary pipe getting a pulse alternately. Some say this makes it sound like 2 four cylinders in perfect sequene.
Now a fully tuned length full cross over system where the pipes going into the 4 to 1 collectors in the correct order (making the 4 pipes fire in order around the collector - called rifling as it swirls the exhaut through the secondary) is said to give up to 35 more hp on a given engine.
In a normal 4 into1 on each side you get one down the left then 2 right 2 lect one right (If memory serves me correct) giving the V8 rumble (as the firing order per side are not evenly spaced.
So if you look at it what you are trying to achieve is get a pipe the correct length and batched together correctly so when the charge from one cylinder exits it resonates back along the other pipes connected to it and the reverse pulse gets back to the valve just before the valve opens and hence the last charge helps evacuate the next charge (causes a small vacuum)
You could also read for ages on the subject and get baffled by reverse cones steps and other things that the pro's use - I found it interesting and tried to get my head around it but got lost - hence my statement about not being expert but have some gleaned information from many hours of reading
On the bolts - may be worth checking if allen key heads would allow easier fitting - may be able to squeeze the allen key past the header.
If you want fire me your e mail address on a pm and I'll send your some pics that show what I mean - I have never yet managed to get photos to link to this site!
Ian
Owner of an "On the Road" GT40 Replica by DAX powered by 3.9Hotwre Efi, worked over by DJ Motors. EFi Working but still does some kangaroo at low revs (Damn the speed limits) In to paint shop 18/03/08.
i see, yes i get what you mean an your definatly right, however in this case getting the car on the road asap is far more important than extra few horses, also really like that V8 rumble!!
due to my cambelt snapping in the vvc engine im havign to borrow a car, (punto) and now its clutch release bearing has gone
Ralph
due to my cambelt snapping in the vvc engine im havign to borrow a car, (punto) and now its clutch release bearing has gone
Ralph
