I have a SD1 flywheel that I want to fit to a 4.2 R/Rover crank, the SD1 flywheel appears to be thinner than the Range Rover one because when we fitted the flywheel the boss of the crank protrudes through the bolting face and prevents the fitting of the ARP bolts ie there is not enough room for the socket between the bolt head and the boss of the crank.
Should the flywheel have a spacer at the rear to bring it flush with the boss for correct alignment with the LT77 g/box, if not, is there another solution to fitting the ARP bolts?
Kevin.
Fitting SD1 Flywheel
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- Top Dog
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Different situation but similar problem with regard to the bolts; my aluminium flywheel has counter-sunk holes for the bolts, and even then the ARP bolts wouldn't go right in. I asked about a spacer but V8D said no, use custom bolts. I ordered some hardened allen bolts from Burton Power I think, got several different lengths just to be sure and they were cheaper than the ARPs!
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- Top Dog
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Thanks Guys,
Real steel also said use a turned down socket which is OK.
My other concern is with clutch alignment, but presumably if the clutch driven plate is still on the gearbox input spline it should not cause any problems?
Another thought if the flywheel ring gear is closer to the rear of the engine is the starter motor going to engage properly? Don't want to fit the engine and find it's got to come out again!
Kevin
Real steel also said use a turned down socket which is OK.
My other concern is with clutch alignment, but presumably if the clutch driven plate is still on the gearbox input spline it should not cause any problems?
Another thought if the flywheel ring gear is closer to the rear of the engine is the starter motor going to engage properly? Don't want to fit the engine and find it's got to come out again!
Kevin
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- Top Dog
- Posts: 2334
- Joined: Sat Aug 18, 2007 5:09 pm
- Location: Sidcup, Kent, UK